"Caucasian Eyes delivers a crisp, exposure-packed trad climb on Squamish’s famed Bulletheads arete. With a technical flare start and a pumpy layback finish, this 60-foot route challenges your gear skills and endurance in a stunning alpine setting."
Caucasian Eyes stands out as a striking single-pitch trad climb carved into the unforgiving granite of Squamish’s Bulletheads North. This route offers a compelling balance between technical finesse and raw exposure, inviting climbers to test their skills on an arete that demands both precision and power. Beginning at the Turkey Ledge, you’ll immediately confront a challenging flare, secured by a bolt that signals the route's protective yet adventurous nature. The flare isn’t just a move; it’s a tactile puzzle, forcing your fingers into compressed holds and your body to lean into the rock’s stubborn character.
Once past this initial hurdle, the climb opens into more moderate terrain centered around a clean, hand-sized crack. This section rewards steady footwork and patient gear placements, providing a brief respite from the intensity before the final sequence. Approaching the top, the rock demands a pumpy layback that leans into the arete with urgency, testing your endurance right before you reach the chains. The final moves expose you to the elements—wind gusts sweeping around the sharp edge—amplifying the visceral sensation of being suspended high above the forested valley.
At roughly 60 feet in length, Caucasian Eyes packs a punch in a compact frame. The climb’s rating of 5.11a fits its reliable difficulty; the technical flare and the layback finish create a cruxy blend that can push even experienced climbers. Protection is straightforward yet thoughtful: a single rack covers most placements, but an extra #2 Camalot offers added confidence, especially in the wider sections near the crack. The rock quality is solid granite, typical of Squamish, with minimal loose fragments and solid edges.
Accessing this climb requires a short but steep approach from the base of the Bulletheads North sector, threading through forested trails that sharpen your anticipation with every step closer. The climb’s position allows sweeping views across the iconic Chief massif and the surrounding wild landscape, where the thick canopy below feels far removed, emphasizing the climb’s vertical nature. Ideal conditions fall into late spring through early fall to avoid lingering moisture on the rock and to enjoy stable weather.
For anyone looking to push their trad grades with a route that balances exposure, technical moves, and solid protection, Caucasian Eyes is a must-visit. Its one-pitch format makes it an excellent option for a focused session amid the sprawling Squamish climbing scene, offering both a physical challenge and a connection with one of Canada’s prime granite giants.
The flare move is protected by a single bolt but otherwise relies on solid gear placements. Climbers should be confident with placing cams in flaring cracks and aware that the final exposure on the arete demands solid footwork to avoid swinging falls. Approach trails can be steep and slippery when wet.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun and windblast on the arete.
Wear sticky-soled shoes with good edging ability for flare and layback sequences.
Pack enough water and snacks; the approach trail is steep and can sap energy before climbing.
Check rock conditions after rain as the flare can hold moisture, increasing difficulty.
Bring a standard trad rack focusing on cams and nuts up to a #3 Camalot. A second #2 Camalot is recommended for the wider hand crack section to secure placements. The bolt on the flare move provides limited protection early; otherwise, gear placements are straightforward but require attentive placement.
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