"Cat's Cave Inn offers a gripping trad climb featuring a large right-facing corner and a challenging squeeze chimney. Located on Suicide Rock's North Face, this three-pitch route tests technique and endurance with gritty, varied granite and essential gear placements up to 4 inches."
Cat's Cave Inn presents a gritty and direct climbing experience on the North Face of Suicide Rock, a well-known formation within the legendary Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks area in Southern California. This classic route draws climbers looking for a straightforward but demanding traditional line. The climb’s hallmark feature is a prominent, right-facing corner that immediately catches the eye as you approach—the natural spine of the route. However, unlike polished sport climbs or popular face climbs, Cat's Cave Inn demands commitment in a less forgiving environment.
The ascent stretches roughly 300 feet across three pitches, each offering a combination of crack and chimney climbing that requires solid technique and patience. The defining squeeze chimney, which tests your body positioning and mental endurance, sits midway through the route. This section, narrow and steep, feels like the rock is closing in around you, forcing calculated movements and full-body engagement to inch upward. As you work higher, the rock quality varies—some sections are surprisingly rough and hold dirt, which adds to the challenge of trusting your placements and footholds.
Protection gear up to 4 inches is essential here. The corner occasionally provides protection slots, but the cleanliness of placements and rock condition make the placements feel less secure than cleaner cracks elsewhere on the wall. This demands vigilance and methodical gear placements, especially on the more awkward sections of the chimney.
The approach to Cat's Cave Inn is fairly accessible but does require navigating the larger Suicide Rock area. The approach trail involves some moderate scrambling and well-trodden trails, taking climbers approximately 20-30 minutes from the nearest parking area. Navigating toward the North Face sector, where the route lies, exposes you to the granite’s sun-soaked walls with intermittent shade in the morning hours.
Top-out is straightforward, and instead of a rappel, most climbers choose to walk off. The descent follows a solid trail that loops back to the parking zone, offering time to reflect on the climb’s straightforward yet taxing nature.
This route is best attempted when temperatures are moderate—spring and fall provide the most comfortable climbing conditions. Summer heat can intensify the climb’s physical challenge, especially in the chimney where ventilation is limited. Morning starts are advisable to avoid the strong afternoon sun beating down the rock face.
Expect a hands-on adventure here. Cat's Cave Inn isn't a friendly beginner route but rewards climbers who appreciate a raw, traditional experience with uninterrupted granite climbing in a layered wilderness setting. It’s a test of grit and technique amid a setting that encourages respect for the rock’s imperfections and character.
Prepare with clean climbing shoes that offer good smearing ability, bring a full traditional rack with cams up to 4 inches, and pack plenty of water. The route’s mix of finger cracks, wide sections, and the demanding chimney makes it a route that both stretches your skills and reminds you how diverse Tahquitz and Suicide’s climbing truly is.
Rock quality on parts of the climb is rough and sometimes dirty, making gear placements less reliable than polished cracks. Approach chimney sections with caution and continuously assess pro stability. The walk-off descent is straightforward but steep; stay on established trails to avoid falls.
Start early in the day to avoid hot afternoon sun on the granite.
Bring a full set of cams up to 4 inches for optimal protection.
Expect to walk off from the top—no rappel necessary, but be mindful of trail conditions.
Check weather before heading out; this route performs best in spring and fall when temperatures are moderate.
A standard trad rack is needed with protection sized up to 4 inches to safeguard the sustained corner and chimney sections. Rock quality means careful placements are required, especially in sections with dirtier holds.
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