"The Cathedral Traverse is an accessible alpine ridge climb in Rocky Mountain National Park that offers a balanced mix of scrambling, traditional protection, and breathtaking views. Starting via the Cathedral Wall with a solid climb on Tourist Tragedy, the route rewards climbers with smooth ridge travel punctuated by iconic gendarmes and a final rappel north of the summit."
Carving a unique line along the South Face of Otis Mountain, the Cathedral Traverse offers climbers an engaging blend of alpine rock and traditional climbing challenges in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park. This route traces a compelling ridge to the east of Sharkstooth, inviting adventurers to immerse themselves in a rugged, high alpine environment where every step and handhold connects you directly to the mountain’s raw character and silent power. Starting from the Cathedral Wall, accessing the traverse via the Tourist Tragedy route provides a solid launching point for the journey ahead.
After ascending Tourist Tragedy, scramble westward from the notch perched above the route into a surprisingly inviting grassy meadow adorned with native wildflowers, a brief but vivid reminder of the living landscape that flourishes above the alpine tree line. This gentle amble sets the tone before the climb intensifies as you reach rocky sections where occasional exposure demands focus and steady footing.
Following the ridge, the path leads to the first gendarme, a prominent rocky outcrop where a two-nut rappel station awaits just northwest of the summit. This point marks a natural transition on the traverse, offering a moment to reset your gear and prepare for the ridge’s second tower. Skirting around the more challenging north face, the ascent to this peak requires careful movement on solid rock, rewarded at the summit by another sturdy fixed anchor.
From here, a single rope rappel drops north onto easier scrambling terrain guiding climbers down to Sharkstooth’s base. At this juncture, choosing a route up Sharkstooth becomes the next decision; the East Gully stands out as the most direct and practical ascent.
Throughout the route, the protection is straightforward—a standard rack suffices, aligning with the alpine environment where gear placements may require attentive evaluation but seldom demand complex fixes. The route’s single pitch and a 5.9 rating position it as a solid objective for climbers seeking an accessible, alpine-style traditional climb with rewarding ridge maneuvers and scenic views unique to RMNP.
Angles of sunlight wash over the face during morning hours, highlighting the textures of granite and casting long shadows across the ridge, making early starts ideal for cooler conditions and less exposure to afternoon weather changes typical to high elevations. The setting offers expansive views of alpine bowls, hanging glaciers, and the surrounding peaks—constant companions that remind you why enduring the alpine approach is worthwhile.
Given its position and exposure, climbers should prepare for sudden wind and variable weather, common in Colorado’s mountains, emphasizing the need for layered clothing and an early start. Footwear with reliable grip is essential for the final scramble, especially as loose rock patches can appear on this ridge. Hydration is critical—there are no reliable water sources en route, so pack accordingly.
In sum, Cathedral Traverse rewards those ready for a straightforward but engaging alpine adventure, balancing accessibility with the invigorating solitude and character of RMNP's backcountry. It’s not just a climb—it’s an invitation to walk the line where wilderness still challenges and inspires.
Despite solid rock quality, some sections include loose holds and exposure. Pay careful attention when navigating the ridge, especially around the gendarmes and near rappel stations. Weather can change rapidly at this elevation; prepare accordingly.
Start early to avoid afternoon winds and storms common at high elevation.
Wear shoes with solid grip; the ridge has loose rock patches near scrambling sections.
Carry ample water—no reliable sources on the route.
Scramble west from the notch above Tourist Tragedy into the grassy meadow as a refreshing break between pitches.
A standard trad rack covers the protection needs for Cathedral Traverse. Placements are generally reliable with nuts and cams, though some sections require careful placement due to limited fixed gear. A single rope suffices for the rappel from the second tower.
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