HomeClimbingCatch A Falling Star

Catch A Falling Star

Joshua Tree, California United States
right angling crack
single pitch
fixed bolt
south facing
beginner trad
desert granite
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Catch A Falling Star
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Catch A Falling Star rides the sunny southeast face of Cap Rock with a clean right-leaning crack and a technical 5.8 face finish. Its welcoming exposure and straightforward protection make it a popular single-pitch climb ideal for trad climbers refining their skills in Joshua Tree."

Catch A Falling Star

Set against the sun-drenched south face of Cap Rock, "Catch A Falling Star" offers a straightforward yet engaging climb that draws both newcomers and seasoned trad climbers alike. The route follows a clearly defined right-leaning crack that commands your attention from the first move, inviting you to test your hand jams and foot placements along its clean, granite edges. As the crack gradually fades, the climb shifts focus to a 5.8 face sequence that challenges your balance and technique—a slick bolt guards this final section, providing just enough confidence to press upward. Throughout the pitch, the warmth of the southern exposure coaxes the rock dry and welcoming, while the open desert sky stretches wide overhead, widening your perspective beyond the immediate challenges on the rock. Though the climb is a single pitch and a modest 70 feet in length, it delivers a satisfying mix of crack and face climbing that exemplifies Joshua Tree’s accessible yet varied climbing character.

The approach to Cap Rock is as effortless as the climb itself, allowing you to spend more time moving upwards than navigating terrain. Located near the Sheep Pass area within the sprawling Joshua Tree National Park, this route is easily reached by a short, well-trodden trail with gentle elevation gain. The landscape surrounding you is marked by rugged desert scrub and giant boulders that have settled into place over countless seasons. Early morning or late afternoon provides ideal conditions, as the sun’s position offers comfort without overheating the rock surface. Weather-wise, bring layers and plenty of water—this desert environment moves between hot sun and cool breezes with surprising speed.

Protection is simple but essential: gear up to two inches covers placements within the right angling crack, while a single fixed bolt near the crux tops the protection list. This combination makes the route a reliable choice for climbers honing their trad skills without the pressure of complex gear setups. Expect to share the wall—its popularity ensures company during peak seasons, fostering a communal spirit among climbers who convene here to sharpen their techniques and swap stories.

To make the most of "Catch A Falling Star," approach with sturdy, precise climbing shoes and a harness rigged for a trad climb with a standard rack. Hydrate well before starting, and if you’re new to climbing in desert conditions, remember to sunscreen up and pace your effort to avoid midday heat exhaustion. The descent is uncomplicated, with an easy walk-off back toward the trailhead, allowing for relaxed conversations about the climb once your feet have touched solid ground again.

This route is a fine introduction to Joshua Tree’s trad climbing scene—a blend of straightforward crack climbing and thoughtful face moves that deliver an engaging, sunny pitch accessible for many skill levels. Whether you’re out for a quick afternoon send or incorporating it into a larger climbing day, "Catch A Falling Star" offers a refreshing taste of desert granite that welcomes and rewards with each hold.

Climber Safety

Desert granite can become slick during midday heat—time your climb for cooler parts of the day and watch for loose rock near the top where the crack ends.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the desert heat hitting the south-facing wall.

Use climbing shoes with good edging ability for the face moves.

Carry at least 2 liters of water given the dry desert climate.

Be prepared to share the route during peak seasons; it’s a local favorite.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.8, the route offers a comfortable challenge with a well-protected face crux that pushes technique slightly beyond the easiest traditional grades. It feels accessible but keeps climbers actively engaged, making it a solid confidence builder compared to other nearby Cap Rock climbs.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with protection up to 2 inches is required, complemented by one fixed bolt near the crux for added security.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Catch A Falling Star and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

right angling crack
single pitch
fixed bolt
south facing
beginner trad
desert granite