"A single-pitch trad climb tucked in Quebec’s Northern Area, Catacombes challenges climbers with a sharp quartz traverse and a sustained left dihedral. Known for reliable natural pro and a slightly stiff 5.10d crux, it’s a focused test for trad enthusiasts exploring Lac Long’s rugged vertical realm."
Carving a path through rugged quartz formations, Catacombes offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb that challenges both your technique and mental edge. This route begins on the same approach as Chateau de Cartes, inviting you into an environment where solid rock and natural features guide your ascent. The climb demands precise footwork as you traverse left beneath a broad roof formed by a prominent quartz intrusion, a geological feature that commands respect and strategic placement of gear. Here, the rock’s texture shifts, urging careful holds and measured moves.
Beyond the traverse, the line bends into a distinctive left-facing dihedral. This natural groove provides excellent hand jams and crack climbs, requiring patience and steady movement to keep the flow. The rock’s character changes subtly under finger and toe, revealing smooth faces with occasional rough edges that reward careful scanning. The belay at 100 feet crowns the experience, offering a moment to reflect on the technical challenges that shaped this concise but intense pitch.
Located in Quebec’s Northern Area at Lac Long, Catacombes folds into a landscape marked by cool forest air and the steady pulse of regional wilderness. The area sits at an elevation that encourages late spring through early fall climbing windows, avoiding the icy grip of winter months. Approaching the climb, expect a straightforward hike through mixed forest paths—firm underfoot but sprinkled with natural debris that keeps you alert.
Protection is purely natural—pro gear is essential here. The quartz intrusion, while stable, demands careful placements, rewarding climbers with secure anchors when patience and skill align. Climbers should be prepared for moderate runouts as opportunities for gear placements appear sporadically along the traverse and dihedral. This is a route that respects the judicious climber, offering a manageable but engaging 5.10d challenge with a slightly stiff crux at the quartz traverse.
For those looking to explore Quebec’s trad climbing beyond the well-traveled routes, Catacombes stands as an inviting test of gear management and climbing technique. It’s a brief but demanding session, perfect for climbers ready to push their crack climbing skills in an authentic Northern Quebec setting. As you move through the climb, the quartz seems to watch you, its sharp edges daring you forward, while the dihedral protects with quiet confidence. This is climbing that rewards calm, focus, and respect for the rock’s natural story.
Quartz formations can feel deceptively solid but may have sharp edges that can catch gear or skin. The traverse under the roof demands focused footwork, and placements can be tricky—avoid rushing the moves. Timing your climb to avoid wet conditions is vital; slippery quartz increases the risk of slips. Always double-check anchors before committing.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun and keep the quartz rock cool to the touch.
Wear sticky rubber shoes that support crack climbing and edging on smooth quartz.
Carry a double set of cams in small to medium sizes for optimal protection.
Check weather forecasts since rain makes the quartz slippery and unsafe.
Natural protection is key here; bring a versatile rack focusing on cams and nuts to secure placements in the quartz intrusion and along the dihedral crack. No fixed gear is present, so be prepared for occasional runouts and rely on careful gear placement skills.
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