"Cat Scratch Fever stands as a compact, powerful trad climb on Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse wall, featuring a sharp crux under a low roof and solid protection. Its 50-foot pitch rewards precise gear placements and controlled moves, crowned by sweeping desert views."
Cat Scratch Fever cuts a bold line on the rightmost edge of the famed right wall in Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area. This single-pitch trad route stretches over 50 feet of classic desert granite and offers a compact yet challenging sequence that tests both technique and nerve. Starting with a precise approach to carefully placed gear, the climb begins with hands searching for secure edges before negotiating a low roof that serves as the route’s crux. This overhang demands controlled power and well-timed movements, pushing the climber to engage both body and mind in equal parts. Beyond the roof, two permanent bolts mark a brief respite as you clip in and prepare for the final stretch, where a last piece of gear will see you safely to the top.
The route’s granite feels alive under your fingertips — rough and textured, offering just enough friction to keep you committed without inviting complacency. The desert air wraps around you, warm but dry, carrying soft gusts that brush against the rock and rustle the sparse vegetation below. From the summit, the panoramic views stretch across Joshua Tree National Park’s iconic boulder-studded landscape, rewarding your effort with a quiet connection to the vast, sunbaked wilderness.
For those planning their ascent, the gear demands lean toward yellow aliens and medium nuts to protect the initial moves, with camalots in sizes #1 through #3 necessary both for the crux and building a solid anchor at the top. The two bolts placed mid-route provide key security points, but placing solid gear well remains critical for a confident and clean send. Though rated 5.9, the climb’s crux traffic light roof creates a stiff challenge that slightly elevates the difficulty, favoring climbers comfortable on traditional protection and technical moves on overhanging terrain.
Approach is straightforward with well-marked trails threading through familiar Joshua Tree desert scrub. The path hums with the crunch of dry gravel beneath boots and the distant calls of desert birds testing the quiet air. While the ascent itself is brief, attention to detail in gear placement and body positioning is where this route truly demands focus. Timing your climb during the cooler morning hours is recommended to avoid the high desert midday heat, and bringing plenty of water is essential both for hydration and mental clarity across the approach and climb.
This one-pitch power move is ideal for climbers craving solid trad adventure without the commitment of multiple pitches or extended approaches. Cat Scratch Fever embodies Joshua Tree’s blend of rugged beauty and technical challenge, making it a must-try for those eager to experience some of the park’s most respected trad lines.
Be cautious under the roof section where gear placements can be tricky; the rock quality is solid but careful slippage here risks a longer fall. The trail approach is uncomplicated but exposed to sun—hydrate well and protect yourself from heat exhaustion.
Climb early morning to avoid heat—the wall faces west.
Double-check alien and cam placements before committing to the roof.
Bring plenty of water for the approach and climb.
Wear sticky shoes with good edging to manage technical moves.
Essential gear includes yellow aliens, medium nuts, and camalots sized #1 to #3. Two bolts provide intermediate security, but strong trad placements are crucial, especially around the crux roof.
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