HomeClimbingCat Dancing

Cat Dancing: A Slab Climb on Middle Cathedral Rock

Yosemite Village, California United States
slab
trad
multi-pitch
Yosemite
granite
bolt protection
off-season caution
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Cat Dancing
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cat Dancing presents a technical slab challenge on Middle Cathedral Rock, where balance and friction take priority over brute strength. Ideal in the fall, this two-pitch trad climb invites focused precision on Yosemite’s smooth granite walls."

Cat Dancing: A Slab Climb on Middle Cathedral Rock

Cat Dancing offers an intimate encounter with the subtle challenges of slab climbing, set on Middle Cathedral Rock within the iconic Yosemite Valley. This two-pitch trad route tests your balance and footwork more than brute strength, inviting climbers to engage deeply with the granite's smooth planes and delicate holds. Its character leans toward a quiet focus rather than explosive moves, making it an ideal choice for climbers who appreciate finesse over firepower. The first pitch, rated 5.10a, is the heart of the route—a stretch where friction and precise body positioning take center stage. The four bolts leading to the anchor require confidence, as the initial clip sits notably high, demanding commitment from the get-go. Pitch two eases off to a 5.9, with equally polished granite and the same bolted security.

Timing your ascent is key. Early fall stands out as the preferred season; spring can leave the rock slick and loose from melting snow and accompanying debris. The route’s exposure rewards the climber with open air and wide views of Yosemite’s towering cliffs, but also means the sun can beat steadily down in prime summer months. Bring shoes with solid edging ability and prepare for subtle friction nuances that slab climbs demand. Water and light layers go a long way as the approach and climb stretch into cool mornings or warm afternoons.

Approach trails bring you to the base on the south side of the valley, where a short but steady hike leads you amid granite spires shaped by years of relentless weathering. The slabs here invite a mindful pace, both to savor the surroundings and to warm up muscles for the balance-intensive moves ahead. Gear is straightforward but demands attention; the rusty, quarter-inch bolts date back to 2006 and offer fixed protection, but traditional placements are scarce, leaving little room for on-the-fly gear adjustment. This makes rappel descent the safest method to retreat.

While the route doesn’t boast steep overhangs or wild dynos, its understated difficulty captivates those who prize controlled movement and mental focus. Climbers often find themselves paired with the rock’s quiet dialogue—how it asks for precision, patience, and respect. Cat Dancing may not be Yosemite’s loudest ascent, but it rewards with a pure, grounded style of climbing that reflects the very essence of slab skill. This climb is a practical choice for those looking to sharpen technique amid one of the world’s most beloved climbing landscapes.

Climber Safety

Old, rusty quarter-inch bolts are the primary protection and should be approached with caution. The absence of reliable trad gear placements means falling protection is limited. Rappel the route rather than downclimbing to avoid injury.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Aim to climb in early fall for the cleanest and driest rock conditions.

Footwear with strong edging capabilities is crucial for the slab sections.

Carry enough water and layers; the route can warm up quickly in the afternoon sun.

Rappelling is the safest descent method; do not attempt to downclimb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating on pitch one reflects a demanding slab climb that rewards precise footwork and composure. The upper bolt clip’s height adds an element of commitment early on. Pitch two eases to 5.9 but maintains a similar friction-dependent style. This grading feels sharp but fair, with no pitfalls of sandbagged difficulty—good preparation will make the moves flow.

Gear Requirements

The route relies heavily on four rusty, quarter-inch bolts per pitch with no reliable traditional placements. Prepare for fixed bolt protection and plan to rappel after the climb, as downclimbing is not recommended.

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Tags

slab
trad
multi-pitch
Yosemite
granite
bolt protection
off-season caution