"Cat Crack delivers a clean, hands-on crack climbing experience ideal for all levels. With solid protection and a straightforward line, it’s a favorite for new leaders and crack enthusiasts exploring Smoke Bluffs’ granite walls."
Cat Crack offers a pure, straightforward crack climb that draws climbers eager to test their crack skills on solid granite in the heart of British Columbia’s famed Smoke Bluffs. Sitting just a short hike from Squamish, this one-pitch trad climb stretches roughly 60 feet along a clean, hand-sized fissure that demands focus and precise body positioning. Its approachable 5.6 rating makes it an ideal challenge for beginners ready to build confidence in crack climbing, while intermediate climbers appreciate its crisp granite texture and well-protected line.
The route’s location within The Smoke Bluffs affords climbers a view of a classic climbing hub where rock faces rise sharply amid towering Douglas firs and the scent of cedar fills the air. The rock’s sturdiness invites confident jamming, and the crack’s width changes subtly, requiring subtle adjustments in hand placement. As you ascend, the crack seems to actively pull at your hands, daring you to keep your composure and maintain steady upward momentum.
Protection is generous but nuanced. Climbers will want to bring a rack that includes cams up to 2 to 2.5 inches, though medium and smaller sizes are frequently used in tandem with larger cams placed carefully. At the pitch’s top, two bolts provide an anchor to clip into, adding security as you transition off the crack. From here, you can easily walk off either right toward the main Smoke Bluffs trail or left into the expansive ledge system, making for a smooth exit.
Because the climb sits in a well-maintained climbing area near Squamish, the approach is brief and accessible, minimizing extra effort before you can focus on the moves. Early morning through mid-afternoon offers the best light—shade filters in from the surrounding forest, tempering the summer heat without sacrificing grip. Remember that rock can be cool and slick if wet, so dry conditions are ideal.
This climb’s straightforward nature has made it a favorite hangout for groups and soloists alike. Its solid gear placements encourage those new to leading to build trust in their equipment, while its subtle challenges engage hands-on technique. Nearby, other routes offer sport climbing options—for example, a bolted face climb just right of Cat Crack that testers suggest is about 5.10b if you’re ready to push your limits.
Prepare with sturdy climbing shoes that allow you to smear and jam securely, pack hydration for the short but rewarding outing, and consider bringing gloves if your skin tends to be sensitive to sustained crack friction. The short pitch and friendly rating make it a satisfying addition to any Smoke Bluffs day, offering a pure crack climb that rewards attention, patience, and precise technique in a classic Squamish setting.
While protection is ample, some cam placements require thoughtful placement to ensure stability. The granite remains slick when wet, so avoid climbing in damp or rainy conditions. The ledge exit areas require attention—stick to marked trails to prevent slips on loose rock.
Start early to enjoy optimal light and avoid afternoon heat.
Dry granite offers the best friction; avoid climbing when damp.
Wear gloves or tape up hands for sustained crack work.
Walk off right to return to the main trail or left to explore the ledge system.
Bring a rack of cams ranging from small to 2.5 inches. Placement options vary, with larger cams complemented by smaller ones nearby. Two bolts at the top provide a secure anchor.
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