"Cat Burglar cuts a precise line up The Saddlehorn’s north face in Joshua Tree National Park, delivering a concise, 70-foot sport climb. With a versatile crux and a choice of finish variations, this route offers a clean challenge for climbers seeking a quick desert ascent with reliable protection."
Standing before The Saddlehorn in Joshua Tree National Park, the atmosphere hums with quiet strength. This massive sandstone block catches your eye immediately, its north face marked by clean lines and a sharp arete that beckons climbers with a keen sense for sport routes. Cat Burglar traces this arete with precision, offering a straightforward yet engaging 70-foot climb that melds natural features with fixed protection bolts. The route's flow is intuitive, guiding you up a slightly overhanging north face where every hold and edge invites careful negotiation rather than brute force. Approaching the fourth bolt, climbers encounter a strategic choice: veer right and slightly up towards the top of the Redskin route along a 5.8 line that opens up with some runout, or continue straight up at a slightly harder 5.9 variation that demands sharper focus and more technical footwork.
The rock here, typical of Joshua Tree’s rugged character, wears the sun’s imprint with its coarse texture, giving your fingers confidence in grip while the overhanging section challenges your core and balance. The crux isn’t punishing, but it calls for precise movement and a steady rhythm to work past the bulges and subtle edges that define this route’s character. With only one pitch and a final two-bolt anchor, the descent is smooth and accessible, a 70-foot rappel that slides you safely down the same face without fuss.
This route stands out for climbers who want a brief but clearly defined sport climb in a remote desert setting where timing and preparation matter. Morning or late afternoon ascents benefit from softer light and cooler surface temperatures, as the rock can get intensely hot during midday. Given the short length, minimal gear setup keeps your pack light, but hydration and sun protection remain crucial—Joshua Tree's desert environment offers little shade beyond the route's shadow during cooler hours. Expect a brisk approach from parking areas within the Saddle Rocks section, where sandy trails and scattered boulders hint at the rugged terrain you’ll climb.
Cat Burglar is a perfect choice for those looking to practice mid-grade sport moves on solid sandstone with an uncomplicated but satisfying anchor system. It’s a modest test of skill steeped in the classic Joshua Tree atmosphere, where wind and sun shape not only the rock but your mindset. With a quiet, focused energy, this climb invites you to move deliberately, respect the desert’s pace, and savor a swift, confident ascent capped by the thrill of a clean rappel.
Be cautious of loose sand near the base after dry winds, and double-check that the bolts and anchor hardware are solid before committing to the climb or rappel. The overhanging north face can be slick when wet—avoid climbing immediately after rain.
Start early or late in the day to avoid the afternoon desert heat on the north face.
Bring plenty of water; the approach and climb offer little shade and high sun exposure.
Use climbing shoes with good edging capability—small edges distinguish this route.
A single 60-meter rope is ideal for the rappel and approach convenience.
5 to 6 bolts secure the route with a two-bolt anchor set up for both belaying and rappelling. A 70-foot rappel returns climbers to the base smoothly.
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