"Carter Classic commands attention on Buena Vista’s Davis Face with a balanced mix of moderate crack climbing and crucial face moves. Five pitches of varied terrain offer a fulfilling trad experience suited for climbers ready to engage their gear skills and enjoy steady, measured exposure."
Carter Classic offers an approachable yet engaging trad climbing experience on the heart of Buena Vista’s prominent Davis Face. Starting smack in the middle of a broad rock face, this route guides you straight into a striking crack system that demands steady technique and measured movement. From the moment your fingers find purchase in the initial crack, the wall comes alive under your hands — the stone rough and dependable, with each pitch revealing diverse textures and climbing challenges. The first pitch eases you into the climb with a sustained 5.6 grade along a dihedral, finishing at a bolted belay that feels like a natural pause amid the rhythm of upward progress.
Pitch two introduces the climb's defining challenge. A traverse right from the belay sets the stage for a steep crack section where fixed protection can offer peace of mind but also asks you to commit confidently. The 5.9 crux requires a deft pull over a small roof or bulge, testing both strength and foothold precision. Beyond this, the route settles back to an easier finger crack, though the approach leaving this pitch can feel a touch exposed. Many climbers appreciate the option to bypass this pitch by beginning directly on the right finger crack, which leads to a comfortable ledge at the top of pitch three but may sacrifice some of the route’s featured moves.
Moving up, the third pitch involves a short chimney at 5.8 that channels you toward another nicely bolted belay. The rock here is textured and the chimney’s constriction demands controlled body positioning. Pitch four is the mental crux, where finding the right holds becomes a puzzle. At 5.8+, you climb the dihedral before transitioning right onto face holds. Protection options are tight—just a single #2 Camalot in a horizontal crack might be your best anchor. Trust and careful footwork are required to confidently cover the modest runout without hesitation.
The final pitch eases the tension with a 5.4 traverse, unprotected but short, moving toward a left dihedral where a dynamic lieback sequence at 5.7+ brings you to a well-earned belay ledge with excellent opportunities to regroup and enjoy the view. From here, the route becomes less technical but calls for focused route-finding to reach the summit, with nothing above 5.8 in difficulty. The entire climb stretches roughly 500 feet over five pitches, rewarding climbers who come prepared with a solid trad rack and a willingness to read the rock carefully.
Good gear management is essential on Carter Classic. Mid-sized cams up to #3 are your bread and butter, with doubles in the 0.75 range providing reliable placement options, while smaller cams like Aliens prove handy in thinner cracks. Fixed protection is sparse outside the bolted belays, so brush up on your gear placement skills and prepare to build solid anchors in diverse crack systems.
Situated at latitude 38.91645, longitude -106.10438, the Davis Face basks in ample sun in the mid-morning to early afternoon, making spring through early fall the prime season for this climb. The approach is straightforward but traverses loose scree on descent, so solid footwear and cautious footing are critical after the climb. For those heading here, Buena Vista’s welcoming mountain town offers excellent accommodations and resupplies, yet the area feels wild and open once you step onto the rock.
This climb is a perfect fit for trad climbers seeking a classic Colorado face climb with a blend of technical crack climbing and face moves. Whether you're dialing in gear placement, practicing transitions across crack widths, or savoring the steady ascent against a backdrop of soaring pine and broad summits, Carter Classic challenges and satisfies with every pitch.
Be aware that protection is sparse in some sections, especially on pitch four where you may face up to 8-10 feet of climbing with little pro. Loose rock and scree on the approach and descent require careful attention to footing and helmet use is advised.
Start early to avoid midday sun on exposed face sections.
Practice placing protection in horizontal slots and bulges.
Wear shoes with enough sensitivity for small edges but solid support for crack jams.
Double-check belay anchors before extending on longer pitches.
Bring a full trad rack with emphasis on mid-size cams up to #3, including doubles in the 0.75 range. Smaller cams like Aliens are recommended for thin crack sections. Fixed gear is limited to bolted belays and occasional pins, so rely on solid placements throughout.
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