"Carney Trash is a gritty 5.9 trad climb set on the Gong Show Wall in Rock Creek. With discontinuous cracks and smart gear placements, this single-pitch route offers a direct, technical challenge for experienced trad climbers seeking a purely engaged ascent."
Carney Trash stakes its claim on the Gong Show Wall in the rugged expanse of Rock Creek, within the vast Mammoth Lakes Area of California’s Sierra Eastside. This single-pitch trad route offers a focused climb defined by its discontinuous cracks and straightforward, bold moves at the 5.9 grade. The setting is raw and direct—granite faces that demand both respect and precision. Climbers approaching Carney Trash will find the granite’s texture firm and unforgiving, with cracks that offer protection but require smart gear placement up to three inches.
The approach to the Gong Show Wall threads through a landscape where pine shadows deepen as the terrain climbs, the air fresh with the scent of resin and mountain earth. The trail is manageable but grippy; expect loose rock underfoot in some stretches and an effort of roughly 20 minutes from the nearest pullout, giving just enough time to transition mentally into climbing mode.
Carney Trash’s crack systems don’t flow seamlessly but rather challenge partners to read and react—to piece together the available holds while balancing protection placement with steady movement. The lower-off anchors offer a safe finish, a brief respite marked by the white granite’s sun-bleached surface and the distant murmur of Rock Creek below. With just three votes giving an average of 1.3 stars, this climb reveals itself as a niche experience—best suited for climbers who relish technical crack climbing without the distractions of polished sport routes.
Gear considerations are practical: a trad rack with nuts and cams up to 3-inch sizes will secure placements in the variable widths of the fissures. Climbers should expect spotty crack continuity demanding both finesse and focus to avoid runouts. The grade does not exaggerate the effort needed but warns of a technical crux where moves become demanding rather than simply strenuous.
As the sun shifts westward, the rock cools, making afternoon climbs particularly pleasant during warmer months. Early summer through early fall offers the most reliable weather, though the high elevation can bring sudden temperature changes. The isolation of Rock Creek provides a quiet atmosphere that champions personal challenge over crowd-driven adrenaline.
Carney Trash stands as a testament to the straightforward, earned satisfaction of trad climbing in the Sierra Eastside. It’s a route that cuts through the noise: pure granite, tangible cracks, and the honest work of placing your own protection while inching toward the summit. For those ready to embrace the gritty character of this climb, Carney Trash will deliver a compact taste of California trad climbing worthy of attention.
Loose rock on the approach can be tricky; watch your footing. On the climb itself, some crack sections lack protection, so cautious and well-placed gear is crucial. Lower-offs are established but verify their condition before trusting anchors.
Approach takes roughly 20 minutes with some loose terrain—wear steady footwear.
Climb in early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat on the granite face.
Bring a standard trad rack up to 3-inch cams for secure protection.
Be prepared for short sections with no crack—downclimb options or careful moves needed.
A full trad rack with cams and nuts up to 3 inches is essential to protect the variable, sometimes patchy crack sections. The discontinuous nature means careful gear placements and route reading are critical.
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