"Canon Ball offers a gripping 30-foot trad challenge with small edges and a crux near the start, crowned by an unforgettable plunge into deep water. Perfect for climbers seeking a brisk outing that blends technical moves with a splashy finale."
Rising 30 feet above the glassy waters of Stave Lake, Canon Ball commands attention with its straightforward crack line that quickly tests your finesse and composure. The climb begins with small, challenging edges at the base, demanding careful footwork and precise hand jams. As you ascend, the holds improve, granting a rhythmic flow that draws you upward toward a sturdy root perched at the lip. This root is your lifeline for a secure mantle to surmount the final bulge, where the crux unfolds in the first few moves after the start. What sets Canon Ball apart isn’t just its grade—5.9 PG13—but the thrilling finale: a massive plunge into deep, clear water below. This isn’t just a rappel or walk-off descent; it's a calculated leap from the top ledge that echoes the explosive splashes the route is named after, recalling the surging power of waves crashing below.
Situated along the rugged edges of Fraser Valley’s Stave Lake, this route offers more than just a climb—it presents an invitation to engage directly with the elements. The water acts as your ultimate safety net, encouraging boldness without recklessness. While the route’s rock is reliable, the crux demands respect and concentration, especially early on when the holds taper. The setting sun often glints off the lake’s surface, offering moments of quiet reflection after the intensity of the ascent.
Planning your day around Canon Ball means timing your climb for warmer months when the water is inviting enough for the drop, and the rock remains dry and grippy. Footwear with good edge sensitivity is crucial given the polished nature of the lower cracks, and bringing a solid rack with a focus on finger to hand-sized protection will ensure confidence on the lead. Approach is gentle, with access tracing forested trails above Fraser Valley, guiding you to a natural amphitheater carved by ancient flows and seasons.
For climbers craving a compact, adrenaline-fueled adventure with a splashy send, Canon Ball delivers a rare blend of technical trad climbing and waterfront excitement. It’s ideal for those who want a taste of classic crack moves with an exhilarating twist—where the environment itself becomes part of the descent and story. Pack water, double-check your anchors, and prepare to finish strong with a leap that redefines the term 'exit strategy'.
While the water provides excellent protection for the final jump, be cautious on the initial moves where edges are small and unforgiving. The root mantle at the lip requires careful placement to avoid slips. Seasonal water levels can fluctuate; ensure the landing zone is clear of hazards before committing.
Time your climb for late spring to early fall to ensure warm water for the jump.
Wear footwear with sticky but sensitive soles for polished crack sections.
Approach via the forest trail east of Stave Lake, allow 20-30 minutes from the parking area.
Double-check ropes and anchors before dropping into the water swell below.
A standard trad rack focusing on finger to hand-sized cams will serve well. The crack is clean and secure but demands precise placements early on. No fixed gear is present, so be prepared to rely on solid pro placements. Water below acts as your safety hedge, so a harness and rope are essential for the controlled descent.
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