HomeClimbingCamel Cracks

Camel Cracks: A Hands-On Tradition on The Camel

Vancouver, British Columbia Canada
hand crack
off-width
single pitch
alpine climbing
north shore
trad climbing
chimney finish
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Camel Cracks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Camel Cracks on The Camel’s rugged neck challenge climbers with perfect hand cracks and a tempting off-width option. This classic single-pitch climb blends technical crack climbing with alpine exposure, inviting adventurers to test their skills against British Columbia’s raw granite."

Camel Cracks: A Hands-On Tradition on The Camel

Rising sharply on the rugged flank of The Camel, just north of Vancouver, Camel Cracks offer a classic alpine trad experience that demands both skill and presence. This route features twin, parallel hand cracks slicing through the rock’s neck—a perfect conduit for gripping edges and jamming hands with precision. To the left, an off-width variation beckons climbers comfortable with wider placements and adventurous body positioning. The rock’s coarse texture presses against fingertips while cool mountain breezes circulate around the narrow passage, inviting a focused rhythm between movement and breath.

The climb stretches 65 feet in a single pitch, rewarding those who reach the belay ledge perched at the neck with sweeping views across the North Shore. For those ready to extend the journey, a chimney section rated 5.6 surges upward to the summit of The Camel’s Hump, presenting an accessible challenge beyond the crack’s end. This extension offers a fresh perspective, where pine-fringed ridgelines unfold beneath an expansive sky.

Protection is straightforward: a standard rack up to three inches covers the crack system comfortably, though the off-width demands attention to larger gear and careful placement. The route favors experienced hands for its technical jams and occasional off-width squeeze, making solid gear judgment a must. Arriving here, expect a trail approach through steep forest trails that calm before opening suddenly onto rocky ascents. The trail can be slippery with wet leaves in spring and fall, so steady hiking boots with good grip are essential.

Timing your climb in the late spring through early fall ensures stable weather and longer daylight hours. Morning ascents bring cool shade to the neck, while afternoon sun warms the upper reaches. The route’s position shelters it from harsh winds most days, but sudden mountain weather changes remain a consideration. Hydration and layering are key, as thin air and physical exertion combine on this exposed, north-facing face.

Camel Cracks marries classic crack climbing enthusiasm with alpine charm, offering moderate difficulty that feels just right for those eager to refine their hand jam technique in a spectacular setting. Whether you finish at the neck or push on through the chimney, this climb connects you intimately with The Camel’s raw granite and wild landscape—a genuine slice of British Columbia’s climbing heritage.

Climber Safety

The approach trail can become slick with wet leaves and loose rocks after rain, so diligent footing is essential. On the climb, ensure secure placements in the off-width section to avoid unexpected falls. Weather can shift rapidly at elevation; always carry extra layers and check forecasts before heading out.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber for crack finesse.

Start early to avoid afternoon sun and maximize cooler, shaded climbs.

Prepare for a steep forest approach; hiking boots with good traction help.

Hydrate well and dress in layers to adjust to shifting alpine conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, Camel Cracks offers moderate difficulty that feels just right for climbers comfortable on hand jams and off-width moves. The grade is solid but approachable, with a straightforward crux that tests your crack climbing efficiency. Compared to nearby routes in the North Shore Mountains, it strikes a fine balance between technical challenge and alpine exposure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with protection up to 3 inches to cover both the hand cracks and the off-width variation. Larger cams will be needed for the off-width section, and solid placements are key for safe ascent.

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Tags

hand crack
off-width
single pitch
alpine climbing
north shore
trad climbing
chimney finish