"Call of the Yeti cuts a bold line up Lost Brother’s south face, blending solid trad cracks with challenging aid sections. This nine-pitch adventure offers a mix of meticulous gear work, exposed ledges, and a rare summit perspective overlooking Taft Point."
Carved into the rugged expanse of Yosemite’s Lost Brother, Call of the Yeti tackles the heart of its main south face with confidence and character. This demanding nine-pitch route stretches nearly 1300 feet of mixed aid and traditional climbing, weaving through clean cracks and contoured corners that challenge both gear placement and endurance. From the moment you leave the patchy forest and scrubby approach behind, the climb promises a shift into an exposed vertical world where every ledge and bulge tells a story.
The approach begins around a quiet turnout just past the El Cap Bridge road, plunging into forested terrain that gives way to granite slopes with no defined trail. The forest floor crunches underfoot as you ascend toward Lost Brother’s base, diverting slightly left or right to find your ideal start. The climb kicks off with a demanding double crack system, forcing you to negotiate a series of crack variations and an awkward bulge before arriving at a stable oak-tree belay. Early pitches are grounded, kept close by wide ledges that stretch beneath the growing walls. These ledges offer space to breathe but also delay the feeling of being truly off-the-ground.
Once past these lower ledges, the middle section opens up into clean, fairly solid granite, trading the clutter of bushes for exposed corners and bolt-protected faces. Aid pitches require careful attention here: a mixture of C1 free climbing and carefully placed aid goes hand in hand with tweaking stubborn rivets. Some hardware is tightened nearly flush to the rock, compelling climbers to bring a specialized wrench to adjust or remove hangers safely. The difficulty spikes where a bathook move appears, demanding balance and precision.
The upper pitches test resourcefulness, climbing flakes, cracks, and overhangs that demand both physical and mental control. The infamous Yeti Mating Ledge appears as an unexpected resting point—two spacious ledges and a more cramped third spot offer welcome respite and potential bivouac zones. These flat sections, while inviting, also hint at the climb’s remote and serious nature. Above lies a long, low-angled corner and slab that shift the rhythm once again. The final climb involves a delicate free move through an overhanging slot and a scramble past sparse brush, bringing you to a summit with sweeping views of Taft Point and the valley beyond: a rare vantage that frames the grandeur of Yosemite from an unusual perch.
For preparation, treat this route like a serious alpine objective—bring cams covering micros to 2.5 inches, a range of beaks, and expect to utilize cam hooks, bathooks, and wire rivet hangers. A wrench to loosen fixed rivets is an essential tool that can make or break your lead. The route’s morning shade softens the granite early on, while the afternoon sun gradually claims the face, so plan your timing accordingly. Water is accessible near the base thanks to a forest spring, but carry sufficient hydration for the climb’s length and intensity.
Descending demands care; rappelling down the line requires precise coordination with tension traverses on several pitches and creative anchor-building, particularly near the top. While the route's rating is generally moderate, some pitches bring technical cruxes and mental throws. Older fixed gear and tricky placements suggest thoughtful protection strategy and a steady nerve. Call of the Yeti delivers an adventure filled with varied moves, remote wilderness ambiance, and a unique blend of aid and free climbing skills—all culminating in an unforgettable journey to an uncommonly rewarding summit.
This route isn’t for the faint-hearted or casual climber. It invites those ready to engage with a layered climbing experience—where every crack, bolt, and ledge demands attention and rewards patience.
Get ready to stand high on Lost Brother’s face and let the granite challenge you in every move.
Loose rock is minimal, but be cautious on bushy lower pitches and unstable ledges. Some bolts are tightly fixed and require a wrench to adjust safely. The descent involves tension traverses; ensure you have experience with intricate rappels and anchor building. Seasonal considerations include potential heat exposure in afternoon sun and insect activity near the base tree sections.
Park approximately 0.8 miles past El Cap Bridge road and expect a brushy, unmarked approach.
Fill water at the spring near the base but bring enough to last the climb.
Morning shade protects the lower pitches; plan to reach the upper, sunlit granite by afternoon.
Prepare for rappels that include tension traverses and natural anchor building near the summit.
Carry cams ranging from micro sizes up to 2.5 inches, including a single #3 and #4. Bring a set of beaks (small through large), small and short arrows, nuts, cam hooks, bathook, and wire rivet hangers. A wrench is critical to safely remove or adjust bolts on aid pitches.
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