"Cache Crack offers a focused, one-pitch trad climb that challenges hand and off-width crack techniques amid the striking terrain of St. Vrain Canyon’s South Fork. A must for crack enthusiasts seeking solid moves without a long haul."
Cache Crack stands as a formidable yet approachable challenge along the rugged South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch trad route, stretching roughly 70 feet, delivers a concentrated dose of crack climbing that tests both technique and mental focus. The ascent begins with a hand crack that transitions into a distinctive V-notch, inviting climbers to lock in with solid holds before pushing upward. Beyond this slot, the line opens into a wider crack system, offering the option to rely on off-width tactics with only a handful of classic off-width moves required. Sharp edges and sizeable knobs along the route provide alternative placements and rest spots, allowing climbers to strategize their approach rather than committing exclusively to the crack.
The surrounding landscape reflects the high desert character of northern Colorado’s canyons, where the rock’s warm tones contrast starkly with the cool air rushing through the canyon. Amid sparse vegetation, the granite’s textures speak to long seasons of erosion, giving the route a raw, elemental feeling. The presence of a single bolt near the top eases the final exit, offering a safe anchor point but requiring climbers to bring a robust trad rack to negotiate the bulk of the route’s demands.
For gear, a standard rack is sufficient, but the key pieces are the larger cams—two #4 Camalots, with a #5 handy for sections demanding wider protection. The protection placements, while generally straightforward, reward those who understand crack ethics and can trust gear in challenging off-width sections. A thoughtful approach to clean gear placement is paramount to maintain safety on the exposed moves.
Approaching Cache Crack is a practical affair. The trailhead sits near Lyons, making it accessible for day trips. The hike to the base is moderate in length and terrain, following the contours of St. Vrain Canyon’s South Fork with clear signage and minimal route finding. Timing your climb in late spring through early fall ensures dry, stable rock conditions while providing comfortable temperatures that balance sun exposure and shade.
In all, Cache Crack embodies the concise yet rewarding nature of Colorado trad climbs. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills or to add a solid 5.8 to their logbook, it offers a no-nonsense alpine environment that mixes natural beauty with purposeful challenges. Expect a tactile encounter with the rock that demands respect and patience, balanced with holds and placements that welcome thoughtful movement and control.
Whether breaking off-width barriers or navigating into the notch, climbers will find Cache Crack a refreshing test of resilience and technique. Pack your tactical rack, embrace the canyon’s quiet energy, and prepare for a memorable climb that anchors you firmly in Colorado’s climbing tradition.
The lone bolt at the exit requires careful inspection and cautious use. Off-width sections demand precise gear placements—avoid rushing to prevent gear pull-through or unstable anchors.
Approach from Lyons via South Fork trailhead; expect about 20 minutes hiking over moderate terrain.
Bring larger cams to protect wider crack segments—don’t skimp on #4 and #5 sizes.
Climb midweek or early morning to avoid afternoon sun heating exposed rock.
Double-check bolt condition at top before weighting it during your exit move.
A standard trad rack covers most needs, with two #4 Camalots and a #5 recommended to secure off-width sections. A single bolt near the top aids the final exit; otherwise, gear depends entirely on well-placed cams in crack features.
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