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Cacamanos: Technical Trad Climb on El Chile's Lower Tier

Mexico City, Mexico
trad crack
top rope
blocky start
bouldery moves
exposed ledge
Los Dinamos
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cacamanos
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cacamanos challenges climbers with a sporty yet technical 80-foot trad route on El Chile’s Lower Tier. It blends bouldery crack moves with precise gear placements, offering a hands-on experience just outside Mexico City."

Cacamanos: Technical Trad Climb on El Chile's Lower Tier

Cacamanos offers climbers a compact yet challenging experience on the Lower Tier of El Chile in Mexico’s Central Mexico climbing corridor. This 80-foot route demands precision and steady technique, beginning with a blocky prow that leans right, diverging from the more straightforward lines of nearby paths. As you move upward, the crack system beckons with technical moves that test finger strength and balance. The climb's rhythm is punctuated by two bolts, providing critical protection points amid tricky sequences that feel boulder-like, encouraging short bursts of power combined with careful footwork. Upon reaching the ledge, the route merges with the classic El Chile line, making for a seamless finish to the anchors.

This route is perfect for climbers comfortable on routes around the 5.10d mark who want to practice placing gear in an exposed environment with some fixed protection. A standard rack up to a #2 Camalot covers the protection needs, while quickdraws assist in clipping the bolts during the more athletic sections. The setting in Los Dinamos keeps things interesting for climbers wanting an experience that's more than a straightforward sport climb—trad skills are essential here.

The approach to Cacamanos is straightforward, following the established trails to El Chile’s Lower Tier. The surrounding environment is typical of Central Mexico’s volcanic ridges—dry, scrubby bushes cling to steep rock faces, offering a sense of remoteness despite proximity to Mexico City. Cooler morning climbs are advised to avoid midday heat, especially in the exposed sections above the ledge.

For those aiming to top rope, an efficient sequence involves climbing El Chile (rated 5.8), reaching the second bolt, and setting a directional quickdraw before belaying. This option is excellent for climbers wanting to rehearse movements or for groups where safety and rehearsal are priorities.

Cacamanos warrants respect for its balance of technical moves and gear placement, demanding concentration and solid trad experience. It offers a taste of Mexico’s growing climbing diversity beyond the better-known sport routes, inviting skillful adventurers to engage with the rock on their own terms.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the ledge and maintain clean gear placements for safety. The approach trail includes some unstable gravel sections—take care on descent and slip hazards, especially when setting or lowering ropes.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to beat the heat and sun exposure.

Use the El Chile route to set up a safe top rope before leading Cacamanos.

Focus on precision in gear placement—small cams fit best in this crack.

Expect loose gravel on approach trails—wear sturdy footwear with good grip.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Cacamanos leans into technical climbing with a short but intense boulder problem near the start. The grade feels true to the effort, with no significant soft spots; the crux resides in the finger crack and the transition to the bolts. Compared to other local climbs, it’s more gear-intensive than El Chile’s straightforward 5.8 line but rewards climbers confident with trad protection and short, powerful sequences.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to a #2 Camalot and several quickdraws for the bolts. The two bolt placements handle protection during the bouldery sections, but solid trad placements on the crack are critical for safety.

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Tags

trad crack
top rope
blocky start
bouldery moves
exposed ledge
Los Dinamos