"Cabin Boys challenges climbers with a sharp mix of delicate traverses and sustained crack climbing on a single pitch in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. This trad route demands steady technique and offers rewarding moves on clean granite with forested trails leading to the base."
Cabin Boys offers a focused, intense trad climb within the rugged Smoke Bluffs area of Squamish, British Columbia. This route demands precision and calm, beginning on either flank of a prominent detached block that stands out against the granite face. At the block’s summit, a single bolt signals a challenging traverse rightward, requiring controlled footwork and steady balance as the rock curves above a left-facing corner crack. This crack becomes the heart of the climb — a sustained section where hand jams and finger locks invite you higher. Beyond the corner crack, the rock thins into a delicate flake; committing to these moves while managing rope and clipping a second bolt calls for a blend of technical skill and mental focus. The climb rounds out with a few slabby moves and a mantle onto a broad ledge, setting the stage for a final, overhanging crack above a small cave where power and finesse are key to topping out.
The climb sits within the Smoke Bluffs, a renowned climbing area offering granite walls shaped by glacial forces. Its latitude at just under 50 degrees north means the wall benefits from dappled morning light and afternoon shade, making late spring through early fall the prime window to experience this line. The approach is short and straightforward, though the surrounding forest whispers of its wild character, with worn trails lined by Douglas firs and the scent of moss. Climbers should prepare for a standard trad rack complemented by a few bolts that assist in protection during the more technical traverses and thinner sections. The rap anchor at the top ensures a clean exit.
Safety and success hinge on choosing the right footwear with sticky rubber for smearing and edging, packing water for hydration amid exertion, and timing the ascent to avoid wet or mossy rock, especially after rain. With only one pitch, Cabin Boys makes for an excellent, compact challenge that tests crack climbing and route-finding skills in a classic Squamish setting. Its moderate star rating reflects its status as a demanding but rewarding route, perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their trad techniques in an invigorating alpine forest environment.
The tricky traverse over the block demands close attention to foot placement, as a slip here can lead to a pendulum fall. The rock is generally solid, but climbers should confirm all placements carefully and be cautious on the thin flake near the top which can feel insecure if wet or dirty.
Dry rock is crucial; avoid climbing after rain as the thin flake can get slippery.
Start early to benefit from shaded morning conditions and avoid heat on slab moves.
Bring cam sizes ranging from small to medium for secure protection in varied crack widths.
Use sticky-soled shoes for better grip on slabs and delicate traverses.
Standard trad rack recommended with emphasis on medium to small cams for crack placements. Three bolts aid protection during the tricky traverse and on thin flake sections. A fixed rappel anchor sits atop for a safe descent.
Upload your photos of Cabin Boys and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.