"Bye-Bye Fly-By offers a direct, technical single-pitch climb on Pinnacles' Discovery Wall. Starting easier but growing steadily challenging, it demands precision gear placement and commitment, especially near the loose roof crux."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Pinnacles National Park’s East Side, Bye-Bye Fly-By stretches 90 feet straight upward, carving a direct path on the Discovery Wall that appeals to climbers craving focused technical trad climbing with a dash of risk. This single-pitch route commands attention from the very first move. Starting on moderately easy terrain graded 5.6, the climb quickly tightens its grip as it ascends, culminating in a crux just before a distinctive roof where it joins back with the Fly-By route. Here, the challenge intensifies—not only are the moves steep and demanding, but the rock becomes less stable, especially around the edge of the roof, requiring solid commitment to latch the jug just beyond.
The rock’s character is raw and slightly unforgiving, offering a hands-on experience of Pinnacles' volcanic origins, with small cracks and edges that test precise footwork and gear placement finesse. Protection opportunities require a keen eye—some small cams can be tucked in above a fixed piton and bolts, but careful judgment is necessary, especially since the route offers one fixed piton, two bolts, and gear placements extending up to 4 inches for the upper half. Expect a sustained balance between calculated strategy and physical execution.
Approaching the climb involves negotiating the park’s characteristic chaparral and uneven trails, but the payoff is a wall that sits tall against California’s Central Coast breeze, providing a climbing spot where the environment energizes as much as it tests. As the sun shifts, you’ll find ideal conditions mid-morning through early afternoon, when shadows subtly soften some of the route’s sharper features without cooling the rock too much.
Those seeking to send Bye-Bye Fly-By should come prepared with a rack primed for micro placements and standard cams up to 4 inches. A solid helmet is a must due to loose rock near the roof. The route’s 5.9 R rating signals the sustained difficulty combined with the potential hazard of less secure holds—this is a climb that rewards focus and respect for the rock’s quirks.
A descent is straightforward—two-bolt anchors at the top allow for a single rappel, but climbers should remain alert to sharp edges and maintain gear protection on the rappel rope. The walk back descends through the park’s diverse environment, giving room to reflect on the climb’s gritty nature and the raw character that Pinnacles offers.
In all, Bye-Bye Fly-By is a route that challenges with its direct line, technical moves, and a palpable sense of exposure. It is well-suited for experienced climbers who want to push themselves in a setting where the rock’s personality demands commitment and savvy rope management. Climbing here promises a blend of practical trad skills and the rough-edged beauty of one of California’s renowned climbing landscapes.
The rock near the roof is notably loose, demanding firm commitment to secure the jug beyond. Loose flakes and sharp edges pose added risk, so a helmet and careful climbing technique are essential. Rappel ropes can be damaged on sharp edges; use edge protection when descending.
Wear a helmet to protect from loose rock near the roof section.
Mid-morning to early afternoon provides optimal light conditions on the climb.
Bring cams for tricky placements up to 4 inches, as protection options vary.
Double-check anchors and rappel gear before descending; sharp edges demand caution.
A rack tuned for small cams just above a fixed piton and bolts, plus protection gear up to 4 inches, is necessary. The protection includes one fixed piton and two bolts with a two-bolt anchor at the top for rappel.
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