Butt Wipe offers climbers a raw and straightforward test set in the heart of the Owens River Gorge, where rugged granite cliffs rise sharply above the high desert floor. This single-pitch trad route begins on the familiar Rim Job, inviting you into its established bolt line. However, just after the fourth bolt, the climb veers off sharply to the right along a unique flake feature that demands attention, balance, and precise footwork. As you scramble across this traverse, the rock’s coarse texture brings a gritty connection to your hands and feet, while the sun beats down relentlessly, reminding you that Owens’ arid climate is part of its identity.

Stretching 110 feet, Butt Wipe is not long, but the climb packs a powerful punch in terms of technical requirements and mental engagement. The protection blends fixed bolts with opportunities for traditional gear placements up to 2 inches, making route-finding and gear judgment a critical part of the ascent. The traverse back toward the anchors of Rim Job keeps the finish tight and focused, offering a satisfying conclusion that rewards clean movement and careful clipping.

This climb sits within a zone renowned for its exposure and high desert landscape. The nearby Owens River whispers below, carving through the gorge and daring you to stay sharp. As you climb, the dry air carries the occasional chuckle of winds funneling through the canyon walls. The surrounding terrain demands solid footwear with sticky rubber, and plenty of hydration to combat the sun-bleached exposure.

Despite its moderate star rating, Butt Wipe is a worthy challenge for trad climbers comfortable with 5.10a pitches and the nuances of mixed protection. It’s a route that tests your confidence on gear placements as much as your ability to navigate a shifting line. The moderate length makes it an excellent choice for a focused day in the gorge when you want quality climbing without a lengthy commitment.

In planning your day, expect a straightforward approach with well-marked trails, but keep an eye on the weather—baking sun can turn the rock hot and the climb more demanding. Early morning starts are wise to enjoy cooler temperatures and more comfortable friction. Bring a rack tuned to medium sizes, include some nuts and cams up to 2 inches, and double-check your quickdraws for the bolt segments. The climb’s dry rock means slips can be unforgiving, so patience and precision will pay dividends.

Whether you’re chasing a sharp move on a flake or savoring the solitude of a less crowded route in the central gorge, Butt Wipe delivers gritty adventure on authentic granite. Perfect for those looking to test both their mental game and gear placement skills, it carries the raw spirit of Owens River Gorge climbing with a tone that is as practical as it is compelling.