HomeClimbingBut I Don't Drink Scotch

But I Don't Drink Scotch

Mammoth Lakes, California USA
quartz dike
exposed arete
sport climbing
single pitch
Mammoth Lakes
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
But I Don't Drink Scotch
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused single-pitch sport climb on Highlands Wall that combines precise moves along a shallow corner with an exposed arete finish. Ideal for climbers seeking a mix of technical finesse and airy exposure in the Sierra Eastside."

But I Don't Drink Scotch

But I Don't Drink Scotch opens with a crisp, left-leaning corner that challenges your climbing finesse right from the outset. The rock’s texture shifts as you approach a quartz dike, where precise footwork and careful balance keep you steady before the climbing shifts to a more exposed, airy rhythm. Here, the route edges onto a stepped arete—a narrow ridge with just enough holds to keep you confident, but demanding full attention as you progress upward. Each move hums with intention beneath your hands, the mountain’s surface feeling alive and urgent, pushing you onwards.

Located on Highlands Wall within the Crystal Crag area near Mammoth Lakes, this single-pitch sport climb stretches a solid 100 feet into the Sierra Eastside air. It’s a perfect morning outing for climbers seeking exposure without committing to big-wall climbs. The bolts are reassuringly spaced—10 in total—allowing you to concentrate on flow and technique rather than gear placements. A rappel bolt and chain anchor await at the top, promising a smooth descent once you’ve claimed the anchor.

The climb’s angle invites a blend of strength and precision, rewarding those who can calmly read the subtle changes in hold texture and position. The quartz dike section can throw even experienced climbers off rhythm, making it a nice crux that bumps the mental game. The arete’s exposure carries a fresh pulse of adrenaline; the wind dances around the rock, and the occasional call of distant birds breaks the silence. From this perch, you’re treated to sweeping vistas of the Sierra, a reminder of why this climb earns its reputation in the Mammoth Lakes climbing scene.

The approach is straightforward, making it accessible after a short hike from the main trailhead. Early season climbers enjoy clear skies and cool temperatures that keep the rock firm and grippy. Given the route’s west-facing orientation, afternoons can warm the rock unnervingly, especially in summer. Early morning attempts are best for a cool start and solid friction.

Gear-wise, stick to sport essentials: quickdraws matching the bolt count, and a rope long enough to handle the full 100 feet plus a comfortable rappel. The fixed anchor is reliable but double-check hardware before trusting it completely. While the crack and arete provide natural handholds, the lack of trad placements means this climb rewards those familiar with sport technique and steady clipping.

Plan your timing to avoid high afternoon sun. Hydrate thoroughly before the climb and have a light layer for breezy conditions on the ridge. Wear shoes with dependable edging ability—precision counts here.

For those hungry for a route that balances technical moves, modest exposure, and a manageable approach, But I Don’t Drink Scotch delivers a concise, memorable climb. It’s a little gem on Highlands Wall that sharpens skills without feeling overwhelming. The route’s commitment is accessible, yet it leaves you wanting more, inviting a return to test different tactics and savor the Sierra’s raw altitude.

Climber Safety

The arete section is exposed with sparse holds—maintain focus and clip carefully. Anchor hardware is solid but always inspect gear before committing to the rappel.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.

Wear shoes with precise edging for the subtle quartz dike section.

Double-check the fixed anchor before rappelling.

Hydrate well beforehand and bring a light wind layer for the ridge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated a 5.10a, this route carries a moderate challenge, with a crux around the quartz dike that demands good footwork and body tension. The grade feels fair, matching other local sport routes but distinguished by its exposed arete finish which adds a psychological edge.

Gear Requirements

The climb is equipped with 10 bolts, including a rappel bolt and chain anchor at the top. Bring a full rack of quickdraws to clip safely and a rope long enough for the full pitch plus rappel.

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Tags

quartz dike
exposed arete
sport climbing
single pitch
Mammoth Lakes