Adventure Collective

Bushes: A Quiet Challenge on Sundance Buttress

Estes Park, Colorado United States
brushy
loose-rock
multi-pitch
trad
lumpy-ridge
long-approach
quiet-route
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Bushes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bushes on Sundance Buttress challenges climbers with a brushy first pitch followed by steep, sustained trad climbing on solid rock. A lesser-known route, it rewards patience and preparation with rewarding movement and sweeping valley views at the top."

Bushes: A Quiet Challenge on Sundance Buttress

Arriving at Sundance Buttress in the shadowy folds of Lumpy Ridge, the climb named 'Bushes' offers a rare patch of solitude away from the busy classics on every climber’s list. This four-pitch trad route, stretching roughly 600 feet, doesn’t greet you with easy charm. Instead, it tests your patience and grit right out of the gate with a brushy, uninviting first pitch that demands careful navigation and sturdy clothing—long pants and sleeves will save you from scratchy encounters.

The route starts just a few feet right of the Guillotine crack, initially weaving through unruly bushes and tough, untidy rock before reaching cleaner terrain in a chimney that leads to a series of solid, back-off sling-worthy blocks. This first pitch's challenging approach makes the subsequent climbing all the more rewarding. After overcoming the initial roughness, the middle pitches reveal themselves as steep, exciting sequences on dependable stone, punctuated occasionally by patches of brush and less-than-perfect pro spots that require a practiced eye and calm nerves.

Climbing the second pitch, you stem and jam in a steep corner lined with dependable face holds, moving toward a rightward traverse along generous footholds. There’s a moment of caution here—grabbing loose flakes could turn a confident move into trouble, but skillful liebacking and toe work help you bypass them safely. The dihedral above features cleaner rock and smells of pine resin carried on the high-altitude breeze. This pitch ties in conceptually with the adjacent routes as it intersects the route Hypo Rock, offering a subtle landmark and community to this quiet climb.

The third pitch is a mixed bag where one must tread carefully past a loose flake and manage poor gear placements in brushy sections before settling into a long stretch of pristine stone. It’s sustained and gratifying, making up for the initial roughness and renewing your enthusiasm as you near the top of the climb.

Finally, the fourth pitch mirrors Guillotine’s easier finish. It’s a mellow, straightforward climb up solid rock to the summit, where the expanse of Estes Park Valley opens before you, framing your effort with broad mountain views.

Protection-wise, this route calls for a full rack up to a #4 Camalot, with extra attention to bigger cams around 3.5 to 4.5 inches especially for the first pitch’s tricky placements. Good rack preparation will save you time and worry on those brushy, pro-sparse sections. Given the scattered vegetation and loose blocks along the way, helmet use is strongly recommended.

Getting here means parking near Estes Park and hiking into Lumpy Ridge’s Sundance Buttress—an approach described as moderate but involving careful route-finding through forest and boulder field. Plan an early start to avoid afternoon shadows creeping over the wall and to take full advantage of daylight. Spring through early fall provides the best conditions, avoiding ice or snow that can cling stubbornly to shaded cracks.

Bushes is a test of perseverance, a climb where the first pitch’s scruffy scrub and uncertain protection separate the patient climbers from the casual tickers. But beneath the gritty start lies rewarding rock and a majestic alpine setting. It’s an ideal choice for those looking to explore a lesser-traveled line that demands both mental and physical commitment, with broad views and quiet moments at summit rest. This is climbing stripped back—raw, honest, and earned.

Whether you’re here to escape the crowds or sharpen your traditional rack skills, 'Bushes' holds a distinct place in Lumpy Ridge’s climbing catalog—humble but quietly compelling.

Climber Safety

Loose blocks and flaky sections near the belays require constant vigilance—helmets are mandatory. Brushy, hard-to-protect areas on the first pitch present higher risk, so protect carefully and watch your route-finding to avoid unstable rock and vegetation.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Wear long sleeves and pants to protect against thick bushes on pitch one.

Start early to enjoy full daylight and avoid afternoon shadows on the wall.

Double-check gear size before the first pitch—larger cams are essential here.

Keep an eye out for loose rock, especially near ledges and flake sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, 'Bushes' leans into the grade with a soft first half pitch but firms up on the steeper, sustained slab and crack sections that follow. The technical patchwork of jam and stem moves demands solid trad skills, especially given the brush and sparse protection early on. Compared to nearby Guillotine (similar grade but cleaner), Bushes feels more rugged and less polished, requiring steely focus through its uninviting start.

Gear Requirements

Pack a standard rack up to #4 Camalot, bringing extra large pro in the 3.5 to 4.5 inch range to navigate the brushy first pitch securely. Helmet strongly recommended for loose blocks.

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Tags

brushy
loose-rock
multi-pitch
trad
lumpy-ridge
long-approach
quiet-route