"Bunnies and Muffins beckons climbers with a compact but intense 5.9 challenge on Alberta’s Dark Side wall. The route’s final exposed moves above the anchor add a thrilling twist that sets it apart from typical sport climbs in the area."
Bunnies and Muffins offers an invigorating sport climb on the stark walls of The Dark Side at Nordegg, Alberta, perfect for climbers seeking a brief but memorable challenge. This single-pitch route rates a solid 5.9, combining technical moves with a distinct finishing sequence that demands focus and calm above the final anchor. Starting with a series of well-bolted moves protected by nine fixed bolts, the climb initially feels approachable. Yet, as you near the top, the route surprises with a shift in character — the anchor beneath a prominent roof tempts you to call it quits, but the real challenge lies just above.
Ignoring the lower belay, a slender section of exposed climbing unfolds, requiring steady footwork and confident hand placements as you ascend toward an anchor perched near the trees. The last 15 feet transform what might have been a straightforward sport climb into a memorable experience, offering a palpable sense of exposure and a quiet communion with the surrounding wilderness. As you climb, the rock’s texture shifts beneath your fingertips — gritty and reassuring — while the air feels cooler, stirred by a gentle breeze filtering through the nearby forest.
The Dark Side’s proximity to Nordegg means you’re not far from civilization, but the cliff’s quiet face holds an adventurous spirit all its own. The route is ideal for intermediate climbers looking to test their nerves and technique without committing to multi-pitch complexity. While short in length, the climb’s sharp moves and the subtle risk of the upper section reward careful preparation and precise execution.
The approach is straightforward: a brief walk through open forest brings you to the base of the wall, where granite slabs meet vertical faces textured with pockets and edges. Expect uneven terrain and some loose rock near the base — proper footwear with solid grip will keep you sure-footed. Nordegg’s unpredictable weather calls for early starts, giving you cooler morning air and stable rock conditions, especially in late spring through early fall.
Gear-wise, the nine bolts offer secure protection throughout, but the upper section requires full attention to body positioning and balance, as falls here could swing into exposed areas. Helmets are highly recommended given occasional falling debris, and a reliable belay system will keep both climber and belayer confident. Newcomers to sport climbing will find this route a manageable introduction to exposure without the complexity of multi-pitch logistics.
Bunnies and Muffins shines as a brief burst of alpine sport climbing on rugged granite, its finishing section lifting it above typical single-pitch climbs in the region. Whether you’re stopping by for a quick send or rehearsing moves for longer routes nearby, this climb delivers a blend of physical engagement and mental grit that will stay with you long after you’ve left the cliff behind.
The rock near the base has some loose fragments; always wear a helmet. The exposed top section requires careful movement — a fall here could lead to a swing against natural ledges. Be cautious on wet days as granite can get slippery.
Start early to avoid afternoon winds and enjoy cooler rock temperatures.
Wear shoes with good friction; the granite has a gritty texture that rewards precise footwork.
Ignore the lower belay and climb the exposed finish above to experience the route’s full character.
Check weather forecasts as Nordegg’s conditions can change quickly, affecting rock and safety.
The climb is fully bolted with nine solid bolts, providing consistent protection along the route. Bring a standard sport rack with enough draws to cover all bolts comfortably. Helmets are advisable due to occasional loose rock near the base.
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