"Bunnell Point’s Northwest Face offers 1,400 feet of sustained trad climbing through Yosemite’s rugged granite. Following a prominent dike across fourteen pitches, this route blends precise protection with varied terrain for an iconic Sierra trad experience."
Bunnell Point’s Northwest Face stands as a compelling invitation to those who hunger for a long, sustained trad climb in the heart of Yosemite National Park. Stretching 1,400 feet and carved into the renowned granite of Little Yosemite Valley’s southern rim, this route unspools over fourteen distinct pitches that weave along a pair of prominent dikes. The right-hand dike—a striking diagonal feature angled up and to the left—guides climbers steadily toward the summit, offering a blend of crack, face, and dike climbing that challenges technique while rewarding with stunning natural framing.
The climb's character is firmly rooted in traditional protection, yet it’s augmented by fifteen well-placed bolts along the line. These bolts provide security where natural gear can be sparse, particularly on some of the smoother sections of slab and face. However, climbers must stay alert: at roughly midway, there’s a cluster of bolts that veer right, leading off the route—an easy wayward turn for the unprepared. Staying true to the right dike remains essential for that classic Northwest Face experience.
This wall demands a solid 5.9 lead—a grade that feels approachable but comes with its moments of commitment, especially as the line stretches and exposure grows. The variety of terrain keeps the climb engaging, from jam cracks demanding precise hand and finger locks, to delicate face moves where balance and footwork shine. The granite’s texture is typical Yosemite: firm and offering excellent friction, but occasionally peppered with small, sharp edges that reward attention to detail.
Approach to the route rewards with a short trek through the rugged beauty of Little Yosemite Valley. The path is mostly well-trodden, moving through forested patches where the scent of pine and fir hangs in the air. Approaching the base, the rock juts from steep hillside terrain that calls for focused footing. Expect about a 40-minute walk from the Valley floor trailhead—ample time to tune your mind to the adventure ahead.
Gear-wise, the climb is friendly to an all-around trad rack, with cams reaching up to 3 inches needed to safeguard the varied crack systems encountered along the way. Nuts also find their place, especially on the thinner sections. The fixed bolts supplement traditional protection but don’t replace the essential role of solid pro placements. Helmets are a must, given occasional rockfall and loose debris typical in this alpine setting.
Timing your ascent benefits from early starts to take advantage of cool morning granite before the afternoon sun fully bathes the wall. The Northwest Face enjoys a balance of sun and shade throughout the day, with cooler shade creeping in by early afternoon, making spring through early fall the prime season for this climb.
Once at the top, views open up to the sweeping contours of Yosemite Valley framed by the higher peaks surrounding you. Descending involves a careful series of rappels; climbers must follow established anchors and verify rope setups, as these can vary in condition from season to season.
Bunnell Point's Northwest Face is an enduring route for trad climbers seeking a granite adventure that stretches endurance, skill, and determination. Its blend of sustained pitch length, varied climbing style, and anchor-bolted security combined with classic Yosemite ambiance creates an experience both inspiring and grounded in practical climbing craftsmanship.
Steep granite terrain and intermittent loose rock call for vigilant helmet use and careful footwork. Rappel anchors at descent points can degrade, so inspect before trusting. The route’s midpoint contains bolts that lead off-route—misreading these can add unwanted exposure.
Watch for off-route bolts about halfway up that lead right; stay on the right dike for correct line.
Start early to beat the afternoon sun; the face gains shade near midday.
Use precision on gear placements—some cracks taper into trickier pro zones.
Helmets are strongly recommended; rockfall is occasional on this alpine face.
Bring a standard trad rack including cams up to 3 inches and a full set of nuts to protect all crack variations. Fifteen fixed bolts supplement protection on harder face sections, but natural gear remains essential for the entire route.
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