Bulletheads Central offers an authentic taste of Squamish’s rugged granite, demanding focus and finesse across four pitches that test your crack climbing skills and route-finding instincts. This route begins with a bold, slanting crack that arcs gracefully left, offering a steep workout at 5.10b. The first pitch unfolds over roughly 40 meters, drawing you into the rock’s subtle features as you place pro carefully and maintain a steady rhythm. Pitch two pushes the difficulty further, starting with manageable crack systems and then shifting into a thin traverse that requires precise footwork and body positioning before arriving at a bolted anchor. At 5.10d, this section sharpens the challenge with intricate moves that reward climbers who trust their technique and gear placements.

From here, the route eases into a mellow 5.7 scramble along a low-angle, right-facing corner leading to a broad, forested ledge. This transition offers a moment to breathe, absorb the surrounding alpine forest’s fresh scent, and prepare your mind for the final push. The fourth pitch steps back into a technical tradition at 5.11a, following a long face crack etched into smooth granite. Nut placements hold firm if set correctly, even as the climbing thins out. The grade here can feel tougher than the famed "money pitch" of nearby Liquid Gold, demanding steady commitment and calm execution.

Located in the heart of the Bulletheads area, this climb sits amidst Squamish’s granite walls, with stunning views that reward each step upward. The combination of crack systems, face climbing, and scrambling offers a varied experience that keeps both mind and body engaged. For those preparing to take on Bulletheads Central, expect moderate route-finding challenges and a solid commitment to placing small to medium protection. The rock is generally clean and sound, but patience and precision are key for maintaining safety on the thinner cracks and tricky traverses.

Gear-wise, a rack with double sets from 0.3 to 2-inch cams and a full complement of nuts will serve you well here. Fixed bolts appear sparingly at belays, but the bulk of your protection relies on traditional placements. Approaching this climb involves a straightforward hike through healthy woods, with well-marked trails leading to the base of The Chief’s Central spine.

To maximize your day, start early to take advantage of morning shade in spring and fall, when the wall remains cool amidst Squamish’s variable weather. Be mindful of potential wet patches on the face after rainfall, as smooth granite can be slippery when damp. Descending involves a careful rappel or a walk-off via the established routes, with attention needed around exposure points and litter-free habits.

Bulletheads Central strikes a fine balance for climbers who want a thoughtful trad challenge in one of North America's premier climbing zones. Its varied crack systems and engaging moves compel respect without overwhelming, offering a climb that’s as rewarding mentally as it is physically engaged.