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Bulging Puke: A Challenging Trad and Aid Climb in Yosemite

Yosemite Village, California United States
trad crack
aid climbing
multi-pitch
dirty rock
long approach
sun-exposed
Yosemite
Length: 1400 ft
Type: Trad, Aid
Stars
Pitches
12
Location
Bulging Puke
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bulging Puke is a demanding 12-pitch trad and aid climb that challenges adventurers with a mix of technical gear placements, loose rock, and sun-baked granite. Offering a raw and rugged Yosemite experience, it's best tackled in late fall when conditions calm and the route clears."

Bulging Puke: A Challenging Trad and Aid Climb in Yosemite

Bulging Puke stands as a gritty test of skill and endurance on the Eastern Royal Arches in Yosemite National Park, drawing climbers who seek a blend of aid and traditional climbing with a significant length under their harness. Spanning 12 pitches and stretching approximately 1,400 feet skyward, this route holds a raw, unpolished character defined by patches of grass and brush that push you to engage with the rock in a way few other climbs demand. Approaching the climb, the sun casts a strong presence here, baking the granite and signaling the need for ample hydration and sun protection to prevent overheating during the push.

Late fall presents the best window to venture onto Bulging Puke, when spring runoff has subsided and slime-coated cracks are less prevalent. The route challenges you with a diverse range of climbing styles: bolt ladders, dirty corners, and tricky aid sequences punctuated by free climbing sections rated up to 5.12. While it technically climbs free around 13a A0, attempting to free all sections without prior clearing is an exercise in frustration. For those aiming to free the crux pitches, expect to do some serious "gardening," removing stubborn vegetation to reveal the genuine crack structures beneath.

Each pitch tells a story of careful movement and strategic gear placements. The initial pitches involve negotiating dirty corners and bolt ladders that reward cautious aid climbing. Pitch 4 demands attention with its mandatory free moves on loose rock and high fall potential, making it both a crux and a reminder to respect the granite’s quirks. Mid-route, pitches like 6 and 7 challenge you with steep cracks, chossy seams, and a few carefully placed hooks that test your composure.

The line winds past Angel Ledge and ascends blocky terrain where the mix of aid and free techniques is key. After navigating through a big roof section on pitch 8 using fixed gear, you face some less-than-glamorous low angle, dirty cracks that underline the route’s gritty nature before reaching the big corner on pitch 10 that rewards solid free climbers with thrilling climbing.

The finish offers multiple approaches: a demanding offwidth that leads to an A3 seam, or a more straightforward leftward traverse on a thin arching flake, both culminating in a challenging but rewarding final pitch that blends technical crack climbing with strong aid. Protection is varied and must cover a wide spectrum—from tiny micros to large cams in the 0.3" to 4.5" range, including offsets and a handful of fixed hardware like beaks and hooks to handle tricky placements and chossy sections.

Approach the climb with a mindset ready for variable conditions and a route that remains rough around the edges. The combination of vegetation-filled cracks, sun exposure, and delicate gear scenarios means this route rewards those who come prepared for both physical and mental resilience. The descent requires attention and care but delivers a full experience of Yosemite’s iconic climbing terrain, from the bustling Valley floor to quiet high granite walls.

Whether you approach Bulging Puke as a technical challenge or a bold adventure into aid climbing history, it demands respect, preparation, and a willingness to partner with the mountain in all its raw, evolving form.

Climber Safety

The route features several sections with loose rock, detached blocks, and brush growing in cracks, creating hazards on aid moves. Be particularly cautious on pitch 6 with a known detached block, and respect the high fall potential on pitch 4. Drying conditions and thorough gear checks are essential before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Aid
Pitches12
Length1400 feet

Local Tips

Avoid spring climbs due to runoff and slippery moss in cracks.

Pack plenty of water—the route cooks under direct sun exposure.

Late fall is prime climbing season for stable rock and drier conditions.

Bring a comprehensive aid rack with hooks and multiple small cams.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 A2+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 A2+ rating blends moderate free climbing with serious aid challenges. While some pitches feel comfortable in free climbing standards of 5.6 to 5.10, the A2+ sections demand precise gear placements under stressful conditions, especially where placements come from poor stances or involve hook moves. The overall grade leans moderate but with a stiff mental edge, comparable to other long aid routes in Yosemite’s Royal Arches region.

Gear Requirements

Cams ranging from tiny micros to large 4.5" pieces are essential, including triples in the 0.3" to 3" range and offset nuts. Bring 5 large beaks, a medium beak, several lawn darts, a knifeblade, one medium hook, and a camhook. The #5 C4 cam is useful for the right finish but might be bypassed if opting for the left finish. Preparation for varied placements and occasional fixed gear is crucial.

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Tags

trad crack
aid climbing
multi-pitch
dirty rock
long approach
sun-exposed
Yosemite