HomeClimbingBubba's Tourist Trap

Bubba's Tourist Trap at Castle Rock in Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, California United States
friction slab
bulge start
desert climb
single pitch
headwall crux
Joshua Tree
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bubba's Tourist Trap
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bubba's Tourist Trap cuts a sharp line through the quieter south side of Castle Rock, offering a 5.9 trad climb that tests your early commitment beneath a bulge before rewarding with clean friction slabs and a short, punchy headwall crux near the top."

Bubba's Tourist Trap at Castle Rock in Joshua Tree

Bubba's Tourist Trap offers a focused, straightforward climb tucked into the quieter southern edges of Castle Rock, within the vast expanse of Joshua Tree National Park. Unlike the sprawling walls that dominate other parts of the park, this single-pitch 5.9 route demands attention right from the first move. It begins just below a notable bulge—a slight overhang that dares climbers to commit early, testing both confidence and technique. Once past this initial challenge, your hands reconnect with the smoother friction slabs that rise above, leading directly upward with an unrelenting simplicity that belies the subtle physical engagement required.

The climb’s crux is situated near the top, where a short headwall pushes you to find precise footwork and steady balance. The rock is reliable but demands respect as its texture changes, requiring a rhythm shift for success. In this sense, Bubba's Tourist Trap balances grit and grace: challenging enough to keep seasoned trad climbers engaged while remaining accessible to those ready to push into 5.9 territory.

Protected by three bolts—recently updated by the ASCA—the route benefits from solid hardware while encouraging a traditional style of anchoring using long slings around nearby boulders. This blend of fixed and natural anchors speaks to Joshua Tree’s essence: a place where careful technique and awareness of natural features secure your ascent.

Approach is a manageable trek through Belle Campground’s quiet trails. The terrain leads over uneven, rocky paths with light desert vegetation, revealing the sun-dappled granite faces as an invitation to explore. The area’s relatively low elevation means the sun’s warmth is a steady companion, making early morning or late afternoon climbs preferable to avoid peak heat. Pack ample water, sun protection, and shoes with sticky rubber to take full advantage of the friction slabs.

Joshua Tree’s southern zones often remain less crowded, allowing climbers a more intimate connection with the granite and the delicate desert ecosystem. When you climb Bubba's Tourist Trap, the rock feels alive, the faint breeze carrying whispers of the desert’s quiet power. It’s these moments—hands gripping the rough granite, feet searching for purchase—that bring the desert’s spirit to the fore, turning a short climb into a meaningful outdoor experience.

For those planning a trip, the route offers a concise but satisfying introduction to Joshua Tree’s traditional climbing style. Its modest length of 80 feet makes it ideal for a half-day outing, leaving time to explore nearby lines or soak in the desert vistas. Whether you’re refining your trad skills or seeking a memorable outing away from crowds, Bubba’s Tourist Trap invites a challenge that’s real but approachable.

Climber Safety

Keep an eye on anchor setups; the bolts are solid but sparse, relying on slings around boulders. The rock texture varies, and desert heat can sap strength quickly—plan climbs during cooler hours and remain vigilant for loose stone near anchor points.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon desert heat that intensifies on sun-exposed granite.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for the friction slabs to maximize grip.

Carry plenty of water and sun protection—shade is minimal on this wall.

Long slings help set up safe anchors around boulders; anchors are not fully fixed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Bubba's Tourist Trap feels precise with a defined crux at the upper headwall. While accessible for many versed in trad climbing, the move just under the top demands focused footwork and commitment. Compared to other moderate Joshua Tree routes, the sustained friction and subtle bulge make this climb punchier than a typical slab route, offering a satisfying challenge without overwhelming complexity.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by three bolts placed by the ASCA in 2000, supplemented by long slings wrapped around nearby boulders for secure anchors. Bringing a standard rack with cams protecting cracks will complement the fixed bolts well.

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Tags

friction slab
bulge start
desert climb
single pitch
headwall crux
Joshua Tree