HomeClimbingB.S. Arch

B.S. Arch: A Compact Trad Climb with a Right-Arched Flake on Suicide Rock

Idyllwild, California United States
undercling crack
thin flake
single-pitch
exposed face
Suicide Rock
trad climbing
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
B.S. Arch
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"B.S. Arch offers a single-pitch trad challenge on Suicide Rock, highlighted by its distinctive right-arching undercling flake. This climb balances technical crack moves with accessible face climbing, making it ideal for trad climbers seeking a focused, rewarding ascent."

B.S. Arch: A Compact Trad Climb with a Right-Arched Flake on Suicide Rock

B.S. Arch presents a focused, single-pitch trad climb that commands attention from its position on Suicide Rock’s renowned face. This route threads a striking right-arching undercling flake, an inviting feature that challenges both grip and strategy. Starting with a move up Axe of God, the climb soon veers right into the thin flake that defines the route’s character. This undercling crack demands sustained body tension and precise footwork, each movement coaxing you higher along the slabby wall. Just past the flake’s end, the climbing opens into a steeper but more straightforward face. Though the protection can thin as you near the top, careful placements up to 2.5 inches keep risk manageable. The final section rewards you with a clear shot to the summit, where a large pine tree anchors an 80-foot rappel, offering a safe and convenient descent. Positioned between more formidable neighbors like Free Lance and Flatman Chimney, B.S. Arch delivers accessible trad climbing that blends technical moves with a taste of exposure. This makes it a compelling option for climbers looking to sharpen their crack climbing skills while soaking in the stark, sunlit expanse of Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks. Weather here can shift through the day, so early starts allow you to take advantage of morning shade, especially in warmer months. The approach is direct, with straightforward terrain easing you to the base without fuss. Gear up with cams to 2.5 inches, and prepare for a short but rewarding climb that feels both approachable to intermediate climbers and satisfying enough for seasoned trad enthusiasts seeking a swift, tactical ascent.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the protection spacing near the flake’s end; some placements can be marginal, so take your time solidifying gear. Also, the approach crosses easily navigable terrain but watch for loose stones near the climb’s base. The rappel pine is reliable but always double-check your anchors before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to use morning shade on the wall, especially in summer months.

The approach is short and straightforward; map yourself to Suicide Rock parking and follow the established trails.

Watch for thinner protection near the top; place carefully and use active placements.

Rappel off the large pine atop the climb for an easy and secure descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 PG13, B.S. Arch sits comfortably in the approachable yet technical realm. The crux centers around maintaining tension on the right-arching flake, which feels more sustained than short bursts of difficulty. The protection rating means you’ll want steady nerves on the slightly runout upper section, but nothing beyond moderate commitment. Compared to nearby Flatman Chimney (5.9) and Free Lance (5.10c), this route offers a straightforward 5.9 with its own unique crack feature and less complexity in length or gear placements.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to 2.5 inches to protect the thin flake and slab sections. The protection can be sparse near the top, so precise placements are key.

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Tags

undercling crack
thin flake
single-pitch
exposed face
Suicide Rock
trad climbing