HomeClimbingBrunser Overhang

Brunser Overhang: Bold Trad Climbing at Murrin Park

Squamish, Canada
left-leaning overhang
roof feature
technical moves
single-pitch
trad gear
bolt anchor
rope drag
helmet recommended
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Brunser Overhang
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Brunser Overhang offers a steep, challenging trad climb in Squamish’s Murrin Park, characterized by its distinct left-leaning roof and demanding body positioning. This is a technical route requiring thoughtful gear placement and a bold approach to the off-vertical terrain."

Brunser Overhang: Bold Trad Climbing at Murrin Park

Brunser Overhang stands out as an intense, single-pitch trad route demanding both physical and mental agility. Located within Murrin Park in Squamish, this climb thrusts you into a dynamic challenge where the rock’s shape dictates your moves. The 50-foot wall tilts sharply into a left-leaning overhang that isn’t just a test of strength but an exercise in creative problem-solving. The climb’s defining feature is a three-dimensional flake-roof formation that seems to dare you with its unconventional angles. As you ascend, the rock’s texture feels raw and varied, requiring precise footwork and deliberate body positioning. Holding onto the shelf-like lip above, you’ll find your neck and shoulders naturally pressing against the underside of the overhang, a useful but unusual brace for this route’s unique posture.

This isn’t a climb for those looking for straightforward hand-to-foot movement; it demands strategic placement of protection and mental focus on sequence. The grade sits at a challenging 5.11a, reflecting the route’s tight crux moves and the need to manage rope drag effectively. The protection is straightforward, with standard gear placements along the route capped by fixed bolts near the top, but an added directional piece is wise to reduce friction especially around the sharp roof corner.

Murrin Park’s natural setting complements Brunser Overhang’s physical demands with a forested trail leading to the base. Approaching the climb, you move through a landscape that shifts from mossy paths to rocky outcrops, setting an adventurous tone just before the start. The latitude and longitude place this climb firmly in Squamish’s famous granite belt, known for its rugged, climbable faces and accessible wilderness. Timing your attempt earlier in the day helps avoid the afternoon sun on the vertical face, keeping holds cool and grip reliable.

Brunser Overhang’s combination of a bold roof feature and solid traditional protection creates an alluring route for seasoned climbers who crave technical variety and a touch of mental puzzle-solving. Whether your goal is to master the tricky sequencing or simply experience one of Murrin Park’s distinctive climbs, preparation with proper gear and an attentive approach promises a rewarding visit. Use a helmet to guard against any unexpected bumps against the rock’s sharp angles, maintain a steady rhythm through the overhang, and expect to lean into the rock in ways that surprise the body.

In sum, Brunser Overhang offers an exceptional blend of physical challenge and strategic climbing in one of British Columbia’s prime climbing settings. This route invites the adventurous to test their skill on an off-the-beaten-path feature that demands respect and rewards persistence.

Climber Safety

The close proximity of rock to your head and shoulders under the overhang warrants a helmet—unexpected bumps are common. Also, watch for potential rope drag on the sharp roof corner; using a directional can reduce wear on your rope and prevent jarring falls.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Wear a helmet due to the close contact with the overhang's rough rock behind the neck and shoulders.

Arrive early to avoid afternoon sun heating the rock and reduce sweating on holds.

Bring a directional sling to manage rope drag over the roof and sharp edges.

Use shoes with sensitive edging to carefully balance on the varied slopers and flakes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.11a, Brunser Overhang sits solidly in the challenging range, with a stiff crux demanding both finger strength and body tension. The grade feels earned, as the route combines overhang technique with mental sequencing. Compared to other Squamish climbs in the area, it’s a step up in commitment but remains accessible to climbers comfortable with trad protection and roof maneuvers.

Gear Requirements

Carry a full trad rack to protect the route, as it relies on traditional gear placements, but fixed bolts at the top secure the anchor. Plan to use a directional piece to keep rope drag low, especially around the sharp roof corner if setting a toprope.

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Tags

left-leaning overhang
roof feature
technical moves
single-pitch
trad gear
bolt anchor
rope drag
helmet recommended