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Brownoser: A Raw and Challenging Trad Climb in Yosemite Valley

Yosemite Village, California United States
finger crack
hand crack
dirty route
single pitch
Yosemite Valley
trad gear
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Brownoser
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Brownoser is a fresh and gritty trad route tucked in Yosemite Valley’s south side, offering a demanding 110-foot pitch of finger crack climbing. This line challenges climbers with its raw rock and thoughtful gear placements, making it a compelling project for those ready to push their crack skills."

Brownoser: A Raw and Challenging Trad Climb in Yosemite Valley

Brownoser stands as a relatively fresh addition to Yosemite Valley’s climbing scene, offering a gritty and demanding trad route for those ready to step beyond well-worn paths. Located on the quieter southern stretch of the valley, this 110-foot pitch takes climbers up a left-leaning finger crack, framed by textured face holds that challenge both technique and mental focus.

Approaching Brownoser means preparing for a dirtier climb compared to Yosemite’s polished classics. The rock bears the marks of recent creation and minimal traffic, giving the route a raw quality that only dedicated climbers can appreciate. This isn’t a climb for beginners; the holds require confident hand jams and solid crack skills, and the cleanliness will improve with time but remains a factor now. Expect to encounter patches of dust and small debris that test your foot placements and patience.

Protection is a key part of the challenge here. The crack demands a range of cams from .3 up to #3, with duplicates in the 2 and 3 sizes to secure tricky placements. If you carry a #4 cam, it’s worth taking along for the final section offering bomber protection. The gear not only assures safety but also encourages thoughtful route-finding and placement, rewarding those who approach it with care.

Though a single pitch, Brownoser is packed with character—its left-facing corner crack beckons for sustained focus and steady movement. The surrounding valley air brings a cool breeze that occasionally carries the distant rush of Yosemite’s waterfalls, creating a backdrop that invigorates without overshadowing the climb’s quiet intensity. Climbers can expect a mix of jamming, stemming, and precise face moves that test versatility.

Due to its current condition, this route promises much more once cleaned, making it an appealing project climb for climbers eager to pioneer Yosemite’s newer lines. Its setting, just south of the main valley floor, offers a quieter atmosphere that contrasts Yosemite’s often crowded walls, giving a sense of solitude and immersion in the granite environment.

Planning a Brownoser climb means bringing a solid rack, prepared for occasional loose rock and dirt, and allocating extra time for gear placements. Wearing sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability helps compensate for rougher textures and less friction. Timing is best during spring to fall when the rock is dry and temperatures moderate, avoiding winter’s chill and damp conditions.

In sum, Brownoser is an invitation to experienced trad climbers seeking to engage with Yosemite’s evolving vertical landscape in a way that’s as demanding as it is rewarding. It’s an unpolished gem that challenges not only your skill but also your patience and respect for a route still finding its rhythm in one of the world’s most iconic climbing regions.

Climber Safety

The route currently features loose dirt and minor debris due to its newness—take careful foot placements to avoid slips. Protection can be tricky in places; a well-packed rack is essential. Avoid climbing when wet, as the rock’s texture provides less reliable friction until cleaned.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Approach with solid finger and hand crack technique as holds are small and the crack is narrow.

Bring duplicates of key cam sizes—especially 2 and 3—for secure protection on varied placements.

Check weather forecasts closely; this route climbs best in dry conditions during spring or fall.

Expect a dirtier climb than typical Yosemite lines; cleaning and brushing before ascent can improve conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels spot-on for climbers confident in crack climbing fundamentals but may push those unfamiliar with dirtier, less polished routes. While the grade is not overly stiff, the final moves demand proper protection placement and precise footwork to avoid runouts. Compared to classic Yosemite cracks at 5.8, Brownoser feels rawer but offers a satisfying line once cleaned.

Gear Requirements

.3-#3 cams with doubles in 2's and 3's, plus a #4 cam for the final section are recommended to protect this hand crack and face holds route effectively.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
dirty route
single pitch
Yosemite Valley
trad gear