"Broken Mast is a compact 70-foot trad climb on rugged shale with technical finger cracks and a dynamic flake traverse. Perfect for climbers seeking a focused 5.9 challenge near Durango's West Coast Cliffs."
At the edge of G. Kipper Cove, where the rugged West Coast Cliffs rise sharply above the Hermosa Valley, Broken Mast offers a concise but highly engaging trad climb that challenges you to read the rock with care and commitment. The route begins on a textured shale face, demanding precise footwork as you navigate the initial double crack system. The rock feels alive here—sharp edges catch your fingers while loose flakes warn of subtle instability, requiring focused placements and steady balance. Moving left across a series of solid jugs, you arrive at a small nook, a natural rest spot and a checkpoint between moves. From here, the climb turns upward along a face peppered with vegetation and anchored by a single bolt that keeps protection within reach but calls for confident clipping. Bushes cling to the rock, their roots twining into cracks and crevices, seeming to test your route-finding skills as much as your physical control.
At a modest 70 feet and with just one pitch, Broken Mast isn’t about endurance but about navigating complexities in a compact frame. The climb’s moderate 5.9 rating hints at moves that are approachable yet require a steady head and clean technique—expect to engage fingers in tight jams and rely on solid gear placements to build a reliable anchor. The shale’s unique texture and the presence of vegetation introduce an element of unpredictability; caution is encouraged, particularly when placing pro or adjusting your stance.
Hermosa’s West Coast Cliffs bring an adventurous spirit that rewards climbers with solitude and sweeping views of Colorado’s rugged terrain. The approach invites a brief but stirring hike, threading through open forest and across rocky outcrops that frame the climb with quiet majesty. Whether you’re dialing in your crack climbs or seeking a manageable challenge close to Durango, Broken Mast provides an honest stretch of rock where each move demands attention and respect.
Plan your outing by anticipating loose rock along the start, selecting sturdy shoes with sticky soles, and carrying a compact rack suited to finger and hand size placements. Time your ascent for mid-morning or late afternoon when light casts shadows that reveal texture and potential holds, but be mindful of lingering dampness after rain, as shale can become slippery. Hydration is critical in the drier air, and local weather can shift quickly, so prepare for variable conditions.
Ultimately, Broken Mast stands as a precise test of trad technique wrapped in an accessible package. It invites climbers not just to send but to engage intimately with the rock’s personality, offering a sharp, focused climbing experience framed by the broad, wild backdrop of Colorado’s Hermosa area.
Loose rock near the start can challenge gear placements; test holds thoroughly and watch for fragile flakes. The vegetation on the upper face can obscure holds—move deliberately and maintain situational awareness. Avoid climbing immediately after rain to reduce slipping risk on shale surfaces.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to manage shale’s slicker sections.
Check for loose flakes near the start before committing to each move.
Approach mid-morning to capture soft shadows that highlight holds.
Hydrate well—spring and early summer bring dry conditions and sun exposure.
A light trad rack focusing on small to medium cams fits the double crack start and face placements. An anchor at the top requires pro set-ups; bring slings and locking carabiners for secure attachments.
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