"Broken Corner offers a straightforward trad climb on Gatineau Park’s Main Corner cliff. With just 15 feet of solid granite and straightforward protection, it’s a perfect introduction to traditional climbing steeped in local history."
At the far left edge of the Main Corner cliff in Gatineau Park lies Broken Corner, a straightforward trad climb that beckons adventurers longing for a taste of pure, old-school climbing. This 15-foot arete stands as one of the earliest established routes in the area, offering a direct and unpretentious ascent marked by solid rock and a confident line. The climb demands minimal technical gear—a standard rack suffices—but don’t let its modest height fool you. It’s an ideal introduction to traditional climbing here, rewarding those who appreciate quiet, honest routes that speak to the origins of the crag.
As you step onto the trail leading to Home Cliff, the forest around you compacts into tall pines and firs, their needles crunching softly beneath your boots. The air is crisp, carrying the subtle earthy scent of moss and granite warmed by the sun. Approaching the base, the imposing, jagged outline of the Main Corner cliff looms with a quiet authority. Broken Corner slices off the left-most tip in a clean, inviting arete that shapes an obvious line upward. Here, the rock dares you to find your grip and commit to steady, balanced moves.
This climb’s practicality shines in its ease of access and simplicity of protection. The rock holds well-planted cracks perfect for standard placements, making it friendly enough for beginners who want to get comfortable with trad gear management in a real setting. Experienced climbers may appreciate the historical context and tonal steadiness, an uncluttered route remaining true through decades. Hobnail boots are a nod to the past and will deepen the experience, allowing a tactile connection with granite that feels alive beneath your feet.
Local conditions favor climbing in spring through fall, when the wall basks in morning sunlight and remains dry enough to keep holds reliable. The arete’s eastern exposure means you catch the first light, helping to warm chilly mornings before the forest canopy opens. Approaches are short and well-marked, making it a perfect half-day project or a highlight amid longer outings across the park’s diverse cliffs.
Preparation is minimal but smart: carry water to stay hydrated, especially on sunny days, and double-check your gear rack for the standard cams and nuts that fit the crack sizes here. A helmet is always recommended since weather and loose stone can create hazards at this cliff. The descent is straightforward—climbers typically walk off via the approach trail, keeping the experience smooth and efficient.
Broken Corner is a quiet invitation to explore Gatineau Park’s climbing roots. It’s a chance to blend steady technique with the rhythm of a climbing tradition that remains accessible yet rewarding. For anyone looking to step into trad with style and a nod to history, this route offers a concise, gripping challenge amid fresh air and towering trees.
Loose rock can occasionally dislodge near the base and ledges; wear a helmet and test placements carefully. The short route can lull climbers into complacency—maintain focus on solid footwork and gear setting.
Hobnail boots enhance footing and pay homage to this classic climb’s heritage.
Aim to climb in spring to fall to avoid wet or icy rock on the arete.
Bring plenty of water, especially for sunny days with little shade on the approach.
Remember your helmet—falling debris is possible on the exposed cliff edge.
A standard rack covers the protection needs well. Nuts and cams that fit medium to small cracks will secure the ascent comfortably.
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