Broken Bits offers a distinctive trad climbing experience on the rugged face of Joshua Tree’s Wonderland Valley, standing out for both its textured slab and unexpected traverses. The climb begins with a carefully bolted traverse that skirts across an exfoliating slab, requiring measured moves since falling before the third bolt could lead to trouble. This section tests steady footwork on rock that remains alive with loose flakes, demanding cautious confidence rather than outright power. As the route veers right near a sharp gully and chimney, the terrain becomes more varied and inviting. Here, climbers face a short section where medium-sized pro placements become valuable, and the chimney challenges your balance and body positioning.

Ascending past this feature, the route directs you toward a broad ledge, a welcome rest where the wind carries in the scent of desert sage and the distant call of ravens. At this point, climbers can either scramble right for a two-rope rappel anchor located on the nearby Early Bird route or downclimb off the back, the latter offering a chance to reflect on the climb as the sun softens on the granite walls.

With just a single 100-foot pitch, Broken Bits packs an intense variety of moves and terrain transitions into a compact package. The climbing demands respect: the face feels raw and occasionally loose, keeping you engaged in assessing each placement and step. Protection includes a handful of aging buttonhead bolts, which should be approached with cautious testing, augmented by traditional gear placements, especially in the chimney section and for the summit anchor. While three votes give it a modest 1.7-star average, the route rewards those who appreciate a genuine trad challenge without over-polished holds or fixed gear reliance.

When planning your trip, come prepared with solid medium cams and a rack comfortable to place in the chimney and slab sections. Sturdy shoes with reliable edging ability will serve you well on the coarse granite. Given the exposure and looseness, early morning climbs are advisable before the heat heightens and the surface becomes slick. Water and hydration remain critical, as Joshua Tree’s dry desert climate can quickly sap strength.

Broken Bits stands apart in Joshua Tree National Park’s Wonderland of Rocks as an authentic face climb that demands focus but offers a gratifying encounter with one of the area’s less-traveled rock faces. It’s suited for climbers who want to connect deeply with the granite’s textures and test their trad skills in a setting both stark and stirring. Whether you’re topping out under a morning sky or soaking in the sweeping desert landscape from the ledge, this route places you firmly in the grit and grind of Joshua Tree’s climbing heartland.