"A challenging single-pitch trad climb on Bishop Peak featuring an approachable offwidth crux and a blend of thin hand cracks capped by finger locks. Perfect for trad climbers eager to refine crack techniques in a breathtaking Central Coast setting."
Bro, Her Face is Gnarly stands out on Bishop Peak as an unpretentious yet demanding single-pitch trad climb that challenges climbers with a blend of offwidth and finger crack techniques. The climb’s fifty feet slice sharply through the rock, offering a mix of splitter thin hand jams and a distinctive offwidth section that usually tests even the most confident climbers. This offwidth crack, often the crux for many, plays out at a comfortable 5.4 difficulty, making it accessible while still engaging. From there, climbers transition into a thin hand crack that runs beneath a modest four-foot overhang—an inviting feature to stem against as you ascend upward. The climax of the route is a series of two distinct finger locks that wrap the final moves, demanding precision and commitment on Bishop Peak’s texture-rich stone.
Located in California’s Central Coast within Disappointment Gully, this climb offers not just technical challenges but also a rugged outdoor experience defined by the region’s dry air and panoramic views. The approach is straightforward, allowing climbers to focus their energy on the rock rather than a taxing trek. Protection is generally solid, with placements up to 4.5 inches using grey aliens proving effective, especially on the upper sections of the crack. The rock holds well, though climbers should remain vigilant for any loose patches near the base.
Bro, Her Face is Gnarly is perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their traditional crack climbing skills without tackling an overly long or complex route. The variety of cracks serviced by well-placed protection points lends confidence to the climb while maintaining enough challenge to feel rewarding. Early spring through late fall provides the ideal climate, with shaded sections making midday efforts more pleasant on warm days.
Before heading out, pack a rack that includes larger camming units, focus particularly on a 4.5-inch grey alien for the upper crack. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential to navigate the subtle edges and stem the overhang comfortably. Hydration is key in this semi-arid landscape, so bring enough water especially when climbing during peak dry months. The descent is a simple walk off to the trailhead, meaning you can focus on the climb without worrying about complicated rappels or tricky down climbs.
With only two votes contributing to a modest average star rating, this route may not be the most popular on Bishop Peak but holds a unique appeal for those eager to experience its distinctive crack work and straightforward single pitch. It's a climb that encourages both careful foot placement and steady breathing, inviting adventurers to connect with the rock in a hands-on, gritty way.
Test all gear placements carefully, especially in the upper crack where rock can be less solid. The offwidth can be strenuous if attempted with poor technique, so take your time and rest where possible. Watch your footwork on the overhang to avoid slips.
Approach from Disappointment Gully trailhead for a 10-minute walk to the base.
Spring through fall offers the best weather with less heat stress.
Hydrate well—Central Coast can get dry, especially in summer months.
Watch for loose rock near the base; test holds before trusting them.
Bring a full trad rack up to 4.5 inches, with a grey alien being essential for protecting the upper crack. Sticky shoes help on thin hands and stemming the minor overhang.
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