"Bridgery is a sharp 50-foot trad climb featuring a vertical finger crack that tests technical skill and gear placement. Hidden within Five and Dime Cliff near Reed's Pinnacle, it blends secure protection with Yosemite's iconic granite for a compact yet engaging ascent."
Bridgery offers a focused, efficient climb that delivers a rewarding shot of Yosemite’s classic trad climbing in a single pitch. This 50-foot route, tucked into the Five and Dime Cliff near Reed’s Pinnacle, balances technical finesse with solid protection, making it appealing for climbers hungry to sharpen crack skills without the demand of a long approach or multi-pitch commitment. As you approach, the cliff’s moderate scale invites a tactile dance with its vertical finger crack, demanding precision hand and footwork with gear placements in the .3 to .5 cam range. The beginning encourages confidence — a lower crux that feels secure, with stable holds and well-placed protection that allows a moment to catch your breath. This no-hands rest signals a turning point before moving into the heart of the climb. Higher up, the finger crack tightens its challenge, requiring a slightly more technical technique but continuing to reward with reliable placements and consistent friction. The two-bolt stainless steel anchors crowning the route offer reassurance, visible from below and easy to locate after the final moves. This route is well suited for those looking to blend Yosemite’s bold climbing heritage with a manageable and focused outing. The setting along the Lower Merced River Canyon gives a rugged, natural backdrop that fills your peripheral vision with rugged granite while the river’s persistent presence below seems to dare your ascent. For practical preparation, bring a standard small cam rack targeting sizes from .3 through .5, with a .75 sized cam handy for the initial placements if you prefer added security. Footwear with sticky rubber will pay dividends on the vertical smoothness, and timing your climb for morning hours can help beat the afternoon heat that often settles into the canyon. Bridgery’s 5.10a grade sits squarely in the moderate advanced category, offering a crisp workout on finger jams and precise gear placement, great for those committed to refining their crack climbing technique within the iconic Yosemite environment.
While protection is generally reliable, placements require attention to detail with small cams and nuts. Careful gear selection and solid placements are essential to safely navigate the technical sections. Be mindful of potentially slick rock if climbing immediately after rain.
Approach early to avoid afternoon heat commonly funneled into the canyon.
Carry at least one .75 cam for added peace of mind on the lower crux.
Sticky rubber shoes improve purchase on the vertical, often smooth granite.
Anchors are straightforward and safely fixed; no need for additional gear at the top.
Small cams and nuts sized .3 to .5 cover the main placements, with an optional .75 for the lower section. A standard trad rack focusing on small gear will suffice, plus a comfortable climbing shoe for precise edging on the finger crack. The route ends at bomber two-bolt stainless anchors easily visible from the ground.
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