"Brain Drain is a straightforward 5.9 trad climb on the northeast dihedral of Honeycomb Spire, offering clean stemming and jams with approachable protection. Ideal for a half-day climb near Denver, it’s a perfect introduction to trad crack climbing in Castlewood Canyon."
Brain Drain offers a straightforward, enjoyable trad climb on the northeast-facing dihedral of Honeycomb Spire, located within Castlewood Canyon State Park just south of Denver, Colorado. This route unfolds along a clean, natural corner that sits right beside the sharp arete, framed by other well-known lines on either side. The climb is approachable yet engaging, featuring a blend of stemming moves, jammed hands and feet, and intermittent face holds that keep the rhythm flowing without overwhelming complexity. Although the rock can hold a slight dampness during dry spells, it’s rarely a serious hindrance—however, it’s best to avoid the shoulder seasons like spring when moisture is more persistent and could compromise grip.
Climbers appreciate Brain Drain for its uncomplicated charms — a single 5.9 pitch that can be enjoyed on a half-day trip from Denver. The angle and movement demand steady footwork and mindful gear placements, but don’t expect any wild cruxes or intense overhangs here; it’s a confident climb that rewards precise balance and comfortable exposure rather than raw power. Protection is straightforward, with the standard trad rack covering your needs, though bringing along some medium and larger cams will make placement smoother in the wider sections of the dihedral.
The approach to Honeycomb Spire is easy and quick, making this climb perfect for a day when you want quality rock time without a lengthy trek. Castlewood Canyon itself is a rugged playground of golden sandstone and desert-like vegetation, with spectacular views over the Front Range foothills. The location offers a grounded dose of Colorado climbing without the crowds or logistics of higher alpine spots. Whether you’re a newer trad climber eager to build comfort on classic cracks or a seasoned climber seeking a no-frills route to test fundamentals, Brain Drain delivers a crisp, tactile experience that squares nicely with the region’s accessible climbing ethos.
To get the most from this route, time your climb for mid-morning or early afternoon to avoid harsh shadows in the canon, and bring solid climbing shoes with good edging ability to negotiate the varied holds. Don’t forget to carry water and sun protection, as the canyon’s sun can be intense once the shade fades away. With a straightforward descent by lowering off the top anchor, the climb invites a relaxed pace and thoughtful time on the rock. All in all, Brain Drain is a reliable classic for Colorado’s southern climbing corridor, balancing inviting movement with enough technical interest to keep your focus sharp.
Although generally dry, the northeast-facing dihedral can hold moisture in wetter seasons, making footholds slippery. Avoid climbing during or immediately after rain or spring runoff to minimize risk. Gear placements are mostly straightforward, but bringing medium to large cams ensures better protection on wider crack sections.
Avoid climbing during spring or wet weather to prevent slippery holds.
Time your climb for mid-morning or early afternoon for better light and dry rock.
Bring solid climbing shoes with precise edging for the varied foot jams and face holds.
Hydrate and carry sun protection as the canyon can heat up quickly in sun-exposed sections.
A standard trad rack plus some medium to large cams cover the gear needs here, allowing for secure placements on the dihedral’s varied crack sizes.
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