"Box Chimney offers a concise trad climb set in the rugged South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. With two pitches of technical crack climbing and a memorable chimney feature, it's perfect for climbers seeking a short but rewarding traditional route close to Lyons, Colorado."
Located within the rugged contours of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado, the Box Chimney presents a focused trad climbing experience that rewards both technique and attention to detail. This route stretches roughly 100 feet over two pitches, offering a modest yet engaging challenge graded at 5.9-. Starting on the left side of a prominent chockstone, climbers are invited to maneuver up and over this natural anchor, a maneuver punctuated by clipping a bolt for security. From there, the route shifts into a lieback crack where body positioning becomes critical—shooting a leg outward to brace against the opposite face helps maintain balance and conserve energy. This crack leads smoothly to an established belay station at the base of the next pitch on the main Journeyman route.
The second pitch of Box Chimney encourages climbers into a flaring crack along the left side, where a reliable sequence of heel-toe jams can ease upward progress—provided your foot size cooperates with the features. Protection is essential and versatile here, as the line demands several hand-sized pieces alongside a small cam to confidently protect the moves. Two bolts anchor the route’s key sections, enhancing safety without compromising the natural gear placements that trad enthusiasts seek.
The approach to this climb is relatively straightforward, nestled within the wider St. Vrain Canyons area, placing you in an accessible yet wild setting marked by shifting light patterns and the steady murmur of a nearby creek daring you to push onward. The crags offer a subtle challenge, combining exposed rock with forest-dappled sunlight that shifts as the day wears on. Ascending Box Chimney means forging a connection with the canyon’s jagged character, where every hold and crack is a conversation rather than a mere obstacle.
For planning this adventure, expect the area’s altitude and variable weather to influence your climb. Early season climbs may deliver cooler stone and limited sunlight, whereas summer afternoons can bring heat reflected off sun-baked rock faces. Footwear with solid edging and a sharp profile will enhance your grip on the slightly flared cracks, while bringing multiple hand-sized cams will ensure you cover the full spectrum of protection needs.
Descending from Box Chimney follows the typical pattern of rappelling or downclimbing to the base of Journeyman, requiring familiarity with the established anchors and a careful eye for loose rock. Local guides stress cautious movement in the approach and descent zones due to fragmented terrain and occasional slickness when wet. This route is ideal for climbers comfortable with moderate trad grades who want a concise, rewarding outing steeped in the distinct atmosphere of the St. Vrain landscape—quiet, elemental, and endlessly engaging.
Care must be taken navigating the chockstone lieback, where holds can be less obvious and a well-placed bolt reduces risk. Loose rock is occasional on approach and descent, so test footholds thoroughly. Avoid climbing when wet to reduce slip danger, especially in the flaring crack pitch where heel-toe jams need dry friction for security.
Bring multiple hand-sized cams and one small cam for optimal protection.
Footwear with good edging ability improves heel-toe placements on the second pitch.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on exposed rock surfaces.
Check weather forecasts carefully—wet rock can make chimney moves treacherous.
Protection requires a small cam and several hand-sized pieces for secure placements. The route includes two fixed bolts that aid safety especially on the chockstone section.
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