"Bowling Ball and Chain offers a compact slab challenge high on The Bowling Alley wall in Boulder Canyon. Modest holds and a straightforward 5.9 grade make this a practical test of slab technique with sweeping views and a quiet approach."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Boulder Canyon’s Main Crag, Bowling Ball and Chain offers a brief but distinct taste of climbing that demands focus and a willingness to embrace the straightforward grind. Situated high on the upper tier of the section known simply as The Bowling Alley, this route occupies the eastern flank beside its slightly more popular neighbor, Oil Pan Hook Shot. The approach to the climb itself begins with navigating a short, uneven gully to the right of Take the Termites... — a path that sets the tone for the isolated and somewhat understated nature of this climb.
From the base, the route launches atop a sturdy block that immediately tests your balance and composure. The first bolt arrives just beyond a small roof, where solid holds give you enough purchase to power through this initial overhang. After that, the slab terrain unfolds upward, inviting a steady pace toward the final two bolts guarding the arete. Here, the climbing strips down to its bare essentials—minimal crimps and thin edges challenge you to stick to clean footwork, as the face offers very few generous holds.
The experience feels practical rather than playful: Bowling Ball and Chain is an exercise in efficiency and precision more than sustained excitement or complicated sequences. Its rating at 5.9 suggests moderate challenge, but the route’s real test is managing the subtle complexity on the slab and resisting the temptation to wander into the easier, hold-rich corner beside the line. The anchors sit just beyond the edge, presenting a slight logistical challenge when setting up your top-rope or lowering down. Advanced planning is needed here—you’ll want a reliable way to access a nearby tree for lowering, since the bolts themselves don’t offer an easy rappel.
This climb sits within Boulder Canyon’s well-loved rock climbing hotspot, a place where visitors find a mix of sport and traditional routes scattered across vast granite walls. While Bowling Ball and Chain may not be the jewel of the area, it provides climbers with a chance to explore a less trafficked line and develop slab skills in a stunning alpine environment. The altitude and semi-exposed position grant sweeping views of the surrounding foothills and valleys, amplifying the quiet intensity of each move.
Gear-wise, you’ll mostly depend on the fixed bolts—seven in total—and a two-bolt anchor, so bring standard sport climbing gear and ensure your quickdraws and personal anchors are in top condition. Since the approach isn’t especially long but does feature uneven terrain, sturdy hiking shoes or approach shoes are recommended. The wall faces southeast, which means morning climbs offer cooler, shaded rock, while the afternoon sun bakes the slab, making early starts preferable during summer.
Whether you choose to try this route as a technical warm-up or a curiosity detour, make sure to respect the fragile environment and minimize impact on the gully approach. The climb’s low rating and understated character mean it’s often overlooked, but it can serve as an efficient outing for climbers seeking a moderate challenge with a side of solitude.
Expect the transition from slab to arete to demand careful foot placement, and watch for loose rock around the top anchors. Descending requires attention: a straightforward rappel isn’t possible, so plan to lower from the tree carefully. Overall, Bowling Ball and Chain represents a focused, no-frills route that rewards efficiency and patience, tucked away amid one of Colorado’s iconic climbing corridors.
The anchors sit just beyond the lip of the wall and require careful lowering from a tree; avoid trying to rappel directly from the bolts. Loose rock on the approach and descent adds additional caution—don’t rush near the edges.
Approach via the gully right of Take the Termites; watch for loose rock on descent.
Start early for cooler rock conditions on the southeast-facing slab.
Bring sturdy approach shoes for uneven terrain on the short hike in.
Prepare a lowering system using the adjacent tree as direct rappel is not feasible.
The route is protected by seven bolts and features a two-bolt anchor. Quickdraws are essential, though the anchor’s tricky position above the edge means a static line or separate lowering system using a nearby tree is recommended.
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