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Bow and Arrow: A Steep Trad Test in Ontario South Bouldering

Orillia, Ontario Canada
crack climbing
flake
bolt-protected
single pitch
moderate approach
east face
gear-dependent
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bow and Arrow
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bow and Arrow challenges climbers with a steep crack, a demanding bulge, and a bold flake finish. Situated near McCrae Lake, this 5.9 trad climb rewards solid gear placement and precise movement, making it a prime test for intermediate trad enthusiasts."

Bow and Arrow: A Steep Trad Test in Ontario South Bouldering

Bow and Arrow stands out as a focused slice of traditional climbing in the McCrae Lake area, where straightforward crack climbing meets a challenging bulge and a defining flake section. The route kicks off with a moderate crack system that invites you to find varied gear placements as you ascend. The rock here demands attention, offering a mix of holds that reward measured moves and solid footwork. Approaching the bulge, climbers face a key decision: attack the overhang head-on or skirt around it on easier terrain. Both options lead to a crucial stance beneath an imposing overhang that tests your composure.

Beyond this point, Bow and Arrow reveals its soul—clip the lone bolt and make a committing reach to latch the flake above. This is where the climb’s character sharpens, with steep, juggy moves pulling you upwards. The flake is the route’s calling card: exposed and dynamic, it requires a well-timed jam and careful gear placement, especially saving a #1 Camalot to protect this pitch. After gaining the stance on the flake, the final moves lead up and right to the chains, closing with a satisfying sense of accomplishment.

This one-pitch ascent spans about 55 feet, packing a solid 5.9 challenge that feels true to the grade—neither overly soft nor unexpectedly stiff. It’s a route that will test your gear skills and climbing intuition while offering glimpses of the surrounding wilderness around McCrae Lake. The rock’s texture under your fingers and the rhythm of the moves engage both body and mind, making this a noteworthy destination for climbers looking to sharpen their trad technique without committing to multi-pitch or alpine terrain.

Access is straightforward, with the approach involving a well-marked trail from the McCrae Lake parking area, roughly a 10-15 minute hike over forested ground peppered with roots and rocks. The crag sits on a wall facing generally east, which means morning sun warms the route early, while afternoons bring shade—ideal for climbing in warmer months.

Gear up with a standard rack up to a #3 Camalot and make sure your #1 cam fits securely in the flake, as this is vital for safe progression. The route’s single bolt offers some psychological security but the rest depends on placing solid pro in the crack system and flake. Keep an eye on rock conditions, especially after rain, as some patches can feel slick. Descending involves a straightforward rappel from the chains, making for an efficient turnaround.

Bow and Arrow balances adventure with accessible logistics. It invites climbers comfortable on 5.9 trad climbs to engage with diverse movement and gear, all within a peaceful yet inspiring setting just outside Ontario’s greater outdoor playgrounds. Whether sharpening your crack climbing or seeking a purposeful session in nature, this route is a dependable choice ready to test and reward your skills.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock around the bulge and flake area, especially after wet weather. The single bolt helps, but solid gear placement in the flake is essential. The descent rappel requires careful attention to anchor setup and rope management.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the McCrae Lake trailhead; expect a 10-15 minute hike through mixed forest.

Start climbing early to enjoy morning sun warming the east-facing wall.

Double-check cam fit in the flake—this is critical for safety on the crux.

Plan your rappel from the chains; bring a 60m rope for a safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Bow and Arrow holds up well, offering a route that feels fairly true to grade. The moves through the bulge and onto the flake provide consistent challenge without pushing into harder territory. The technical placement of protection and the physical reach for the flake add subtle difficulty, keeping the climb engaging throughout.

Gear Requirements

Carry a conventional rack up to a #3 Camalot, prioritizing a #1 cam for the tricky flake section where other protections won’t fit securely. Only one bolt on the route provides some fixed gear confidence.

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Tags

crack climbing
flake
bolt-protected
single pitch
moderate approach
east face
gear-dependent