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Boulderfield Gorge Trad Climb in Yosemite Valley

Yosemite Valley, California United States
gully
chockstone
offwidth
bushwhack
mossy rock
loose terrain
multi-pitch
Length: 1000 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
9
Location
Boulderfield Gorge
Aspect
South Facing

Boulderfield Gorge

Trad

Yosemite Valley, California United States

Overview

"Boulderfield Gorge slices through a vast gully in Yosemite Valley with a mix of technical jams, tricky stemming, and loose scrambles. This nine-pitch trad climb invites those craving adventure beyond polished cracks, where route-finding and raw terrain shape the experience."

Boulderfield Gorge Trad Climb in Yosemite Valley

Boulderfield Gorge offers a rugged, unvarnished slice of Yosemite climbing that tests both resolve and route-finding skills. Situated on the south side of the valley, this route carves its way through a colossal gully where two imposing walls meet — the weathered, water-smoothed north face and the sheer west-facing cliffs. The approach itself demands attention: a steady hike up the climber’s trail to the base of Manana, then a careful trek right along the wall to the entry of this massive notch in the rock.

From the start, Boulderfield Gorge delivers raw granite challenges framed by moss and dirt, the underfoot terrain often loose but manageable, except for a thick brush section near the summit. The first few pitches negotiate three defining "steps" — substantial chockstones that guard progress and require precise moves. The initial crux features left-leaning jam placements where awkward hand and finger locks come into play. The second demands powerful stemming and a difficult mantel onto a ledge, while the third requires a dynamic pull-up on a solid hold to move past the rock.

Above the steps, the route skirts into a less obvious secondary ledge system on the gully’s left, a welcome detour from some of the looser chimneys that dominate the main corridor. Climbers tunnel behind twin chockstones, navigating through pockets and flakes to reach the notorious “Colossus” — a massive overhanging boulder obstructing the chimney. This final obstacle pushes the technical envelope: a left-facing off-width flake start, a traverse to the right wall, and stiff moves up a series of flakes, culminating in a challenging mantle onto a crumbly ramp.

The last sections ease into third and fourth-class scrambling through dense vegetation, ferns brushing shoulders and thistles snagging gear, guiding you toward the shoulder of the wall. This is no pristinely polished sport route; it’s an expeditionary climb requiring patience and careful foot placement, as slips on wet rock or loose dirt could bite hard.

Descending Boulderfield Gorge demands just as much caution. The primary option involves rappelling off the main face, potentially requiring two ropes and significant webbing, as much of the rappel gear must be established in place. For those who prefer to avoid the technical challenges of double-rope rappels, a bushwhack with some route-finding east then north leads across cliffs to the Valley rim. From there, a cross-country hike reconnects with the Pohono Trail, which will either carry you to Glacier Point for a ride or back to the valley floor on foot.

Given its exposed rock and heavy vegetative sections, Boulderfield Gorge is best attempted in dry weather — slippery surfaces and damp moss drastically increase risk. This route appeals to adventurers who seek a Yosemite experience far from crowds, one that demands a blend of bouldering toughness, route-finding savvy, and a willingness to embrace sections that are as much hiking as they are climbing. If you desire polished cracks and well-protected pitches, other nearby options like The Cleft might serve better, but for those seeking the raw grit of a seldom-touched gully route, Boulderfield Gorge stands ready to test your perseverance and skill.

Climber Safety

This climb demands extra caution on wet days—moss and dirt create slick conditions, and some sections are poorly protected. The brush near the top can mask unstable holds and trip hazards. Rappel anchors are largely not fixed, requiring solid anchor-building skills and extra webbing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches9
Length1000 feet

Local Tips

Avoid climbing if recent rains have made the route wet and slippery.

Start early to ensure ample daylight for the approaches and descent.

Check webbing and gear for wear before relying on your rappel anchors.

Use caution on vegetated pitches—plants can obscure insecure footholds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:A solid 5.9 that feels a bit stiffer than usual due to the awkward jams and physical mantel moves on the chockstones. The grade belies the real effort needed to handle route-finding and loose sections, making it a stronger challenge than a straightforward Yosemite 5.9.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack up to 4 inches, including plenty of nuts and slings for tricky placements. Fixed protection is minimal, so be prepared to place your own gear carefully, especially on the crux chockstones.

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Tags

gully
chockstone
offwidth
bushwhack
mossy rock
loose terrain
multi-pitch