"Boulder Slips challenges trad climbers with a distinctive mix of sustained dihedral climbing and a technical traverse beneath a roof. Its less-traveled line rewards precise gear placement and steady nerves, making it a notable test of traditional skills in Boulder Canyon."
Boulder Slips stands as a quietly demanding trad climb tucked right in the heart of Boulder Canyon, Colorado. Though it rarely draws the crowds these days due to some sketchy protection spots, it offers rewarding sequences of sustained climbing and thought-provoking moves that keep seasoned trad climbers interested. The route kicks off at a broad right-facing dihedral, its textured walls inviting you to negotiate a line that tests both finger strength and route-finding. About 40 feet in, a roof presents itself like a guarded challenge, compelling a precise traverse beneath it. Here, the rock becomes a player, daring you to thread small cams and wires into tight cracks as you shift left onto a sharp arete. The crux is balanced by the placement opportunities for small gear such as black Aliens, providing a key psychological boost on the technical traverse.
Moving past the roof, the climb shifts character: a short slab veers right, leading into a crack system where the grade eases slightly but the exposure tightens. While not technically wild, two slab sections invite respect since runouts here can test a leader’s composure. After topping out at a secure two-bolt anchor shared with the adjacent route My Way, climbers can savor a well-earned rest and prepare for the descent. The rappel is straightforward from this point, but continuing to the pine tree above is discouraged due to the lack of anchors and the rope length demand.
The setting amplifies the experience: Boulder Canyon’s alpine air fills your lungs, and the sheer rock faces seem to lean in with anticipation. This climb offers a tactile connection, from fingers brushing rough granite to feet balancing on slabs that shift subtly beneath you. The approach is short but engaging, following a solid trail to the crag’s shoulder, setting the stage for the climb without exhausting your energy reserves.
For trad climbers looking to brush up on gear placements and face climbing on varied terrain, Boulder Slips serves as an inviting test piece. Use smaller cams and wires generously and be prepared to top rope for maximum safety on the crux traverse, especially if you’re assessing the route for the first time. The climb’s moderate length and single pitch make it a fitting half-day investment, and with an average rating of 5.9 R, it’s a route that rewards respect and good planning. Fall weather often brings stable conditions and sun in the morning, ideal for warming up before tackling the challenging moves under the roof. Whether you're seeking a technical push or a solid introduction to Boulder's trad lines, Boulder Slips offers an intimate and engaging slice of the canyon’s granite character.
Watch for runouts on the two slab sections above the roof where protection thins out. Avoid pushing beyond the junction at the two-bolt anchor at the top, as going further leads to unprotected terrain and a rappel that exceeds a 60m rope length.
Approach via the right shoulder of the crag from the parking pullout—trail is clear and under 10 minutes.
Top-rope the crux traverse from the My Way anchor to minimize risk on the delicate moves.
Start climbs on cool mornings to benefit from sun exposure on the east-facing wall.
Use a standard 60m rope for the rappel; avoid pushing beyond the two-bolt anchor to prevent risk on no-anchor terrain.
Bring a gear rack focused on small to finger-sized cams and wires. Key placements include two black Aliens for the crux traverse below the roof. Ball nuts can supplement protection here. Modern cams fit well through the dihedral and traverse sections. Expect runouts in the slab sections above, where protection is more sparse.
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