"With its smooth granite slab and sparse protection, Bottom Feeder challenges trad climbers to hone precise footwork and mental focus. This single-pitch route on Middle Cathedral Rock offers a rewarding balance of exposure and security amid Yosemite's awe-inspiring granite walls."
Bottom Feeder is a single-pitch trad route carved into the north face apron of Middle Cathedral Rock, part of Yosemite’s iconic Cathedral Spires cluster. It stands out as a measured test on smooth granite, wedged between the routes Stupid Pet Tricks and Cat Dancing. What grabs your attention immediately is the route’s balance between exposure and protection: five fresh bolts spaced along its 170-foot length offer reassurance, but the initial 25 feet demand careful focus. Here, the rock is clean but slabby, with minimal holds, forcing you to place tiny wires for peace of mind—though these pieces provide more psychological comfort than solid fall protection. The climb begins on this challenging slab section that demands quiet confidence and precise footwork.
Once beyond the early crux and into the dish-shaped ledge, the route eases slightly. Good edges present themselves, allowing upward progress until you clip the first bolt. Moving past an overlap secured by an old piton, you can supplement with a 1-inch cam for extra security on the right side. As you reach the fourth bolt, just below another small roof, a leftward traverse leads to larger holds that reward your cautious approach.
The final stretch before the anchor feels steeper and can give a moment of hesitation, but careful foot placement and rightward moves lead to reliable holds. The rock quality here is flawless, with clean granite that gleams under the sunlight and demands respect. Though the pitch is long for a single pitch, rappelling from the anchor is straightforward using a 60-meter rope, swinging over to the first pitch anchor of Cat Dancing for a smooth descent.
This route isn't for the casual climber chasing effortless fun but offers a compelling slab experience for those looking to sharpen their trad skills in Yosemite’s stunning setting. The relatively light protection (a handful of bolts with minimal gear placements) means climbers should come prepared with solid slab climbing technique and a calm mindset.
Set in the heart of Yosemite Valley on Middle Cathedral Rock’s north face, Bottom Feeder gives climbers a chance to engage deeply with the vertical granite façade that’s synonymous with the park. The approach involves a moderate hike across valley terrain, allowing the forested paths and towering cliffs to set the scene.
For planning, aim to climb on clear days when the rock is dry—slab climbing becomes noticeably more demanding when the granite is slick. Start early to avoid the midday heat and lingering crowds. Bring a small rack including tiny wires and a 1-inch cam, plus enough quickdraws for the bolts. Wear sticky climbing shoes with sharp edges to handle the thin footholds. Hydrate properly and pack essentials for a seamless day in the field.
Bottom Feeder embodies the ingenuity and focus traditional climbing demands—your moves must be deliberate, your gear placements thoughtful, and your head clear. Success here means experiencing Yosemite in a raw, direct way, where granite, gravity, and technique converge in a brief but memorable ascent.
The initial 25 feet lack solid gear and rely heavily on small wires for backup—an unprotected fall here could be severe. Place protection carefully, and double-check placements before committing. Avoid climbing in damp or wet conditions as slab friction diminishes significantly.
Start early to ensure dry rock on the slab section.
Wear shoes with sharp edging for precise footholds.
Use a 60m rope to rappel to Cat Dancing’s anchor efficiently.
Keep your rack light but include small cams and wires.
Bring a small rack including tiny wires for the lower slab section and a 1-inch cam to back up the old piton near the overlap. Quickdraws are needed for the five fresh bolts protecting the route.
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