"Botonga is a compact 40-foot sport climb hidden just west of the Bihedral Area’s main approach in Boulder Canyon. Its sharp rock and precise bolt placements demand careful rope management and solid technique, offering a distinctive taste of Boulder’s less explored sport routes."
Botonga offers a brief but technically engaging sport climb tucked into the rugged contours of Boulder Canyon’s Lower Tier. Located on a compact buttress just west of the main Bihedral approach, this route challenges climbers with tight, sharp moves and a subtle complexity that rewards precision and attention to rope management. The climb's 40-foot single pitch places you in a rock face that feels somewhat hidden, not highlighted in the usual guides, yet delivers a worthy mission for those seeking off-the-beaten-path sport routes.
The climb begins just before the trail turns toward scrambling sections, taking a hard left to find the modest wall with several bolts, where Botonga is the second bolt line from the right. The rock’s texture grabs with deliberate edges and subtle flakes, creating a climbing rhythm that demands control rather than brute force. Bolts are solid and strategically placed, but the rope runs can become tricky, especially between the lower pairs where a sharp flake pulls the rope left—adding a layer of technical rope management. Using two-foot slings on the first few quickdraws smooths out any awkward drag and protects your rope from sharp edges.
While Botonga’s climbing isn’t long, it’s a crisp 5.9 that requires clean footwork and efficient clipping. The feel is direct and measured, avoiding wild moves but keeping the adrenaline flowing. After topping out, the descent offers straightforward rappelling from bolted rings, a safer alternative to lowering which can strain your rope over the rocky edges.
Surrounding the climb, Boulder Canyon’s Bihedral Area pulls in a diverse crowd of climbers seeking quiet sport routes amid the classic Boulder granite context. The area’s elevation brings cooler temperatures, especially in the morning, making it comfortable for warm-weather excursions. Early spring to early fall is the best window to enjoy Botonga, as winter snows linger in the higher reaches.
Planning your trip, remember to pack standard sport climbing gear—four draws cover the bolts, along with extra draws or slings to manage rope drag. Anchors are fixed and reliable, but additional cams like a #1 Camalot and a small Alien are handy if you explore adjacent routes such as the nearby "Like a Wonk" pitch. Approach trails are well-marked, though the left turn toward this buttress is subtle; a GPS waypoint at 40.0035, -105.3966 will guide you.
Botonga presents a polished sport climbing experience that’s less trafficked, perfect for climbers looking to hone technique on a short pitch with a mix of protection challenges and straightforward descent. It’s a chance to engage directly with Boulder Canyon’s quieter corners, testing skill and route-finding without the crowds.
Watch out for rope abrasion on the sharp flake between the first few bolts—slings are vital here. Rappelling is the recommended descent method, as lowering can prematurely wear your rope over the rock's edges. Approaches can be slippery near the trail junction, so good footwear and careful footing are essential.
Use two-foot slings on the lower bolts to reduce rope drag around sharp edges.
Approach involves a left turn from the standard Bihedral trail before scrambling begins.
rappel from rings at the top to protect your rope; avoid lowering the rope directly.
Spring to early fall offers the best weather window; mornings tend to be cooler and less crowded.
A standard set of four quickdraws works well on Botonga’s well-bolted route. Carry two-foot slings to manage rope drag around sharp flakes. For anchor building, use the fixed rings at the top. Optional gear like a #1 Camalot and a small Alien come in handy for neighboring routes but aren’t essential here.
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