"Born Again offers a concise, engaging traditional climb on the lesser-known South face of Toddler Rock. Featuring a brief chimney and crack sequence, this 5.8 climb rewards precise gear placement and steady movement in Boulder’s Flatirons."
Born Again stands as a brief but memorable tradition on the intimate South face of Toddler Rock, one of the smaller formations within Boulder’s Flatirons cluster. Its charm lies in its concentrated experience, delivering a compact climb of roughly 50 feet where climbers move through a vivid sequence of climbing styles, beginning with a narrow chimney that demands body awareness and balance, before easing into a crack and slab system that tests subtle footwork and steady protection placements.
The route traces a left-facing corner lined alongside a streak of intense golden-yellow lichen that marks the rock’s unique character under the Colorado sun. This brightness cuts through the earth tones of the Flatirons, providing a natural highlight to locate the climb amid surrounding monoliths. The climb offers a kind of physical refreshment—a “rebirth” as you pass through the chimney, transitioning your mindset from cautious approach to fluid movement. Protection is straightforward: a well-rounded rack including cams, hexes, and even some less conventional options like nuts will serve well. The placements, while generally reliable, ask for thoughtful gear choices especially in the chimney section.
Approaching the route is a short hike from popular Flatirons trailheads near Boulder, winding through pine and scrub, with the air scented by juniper and fresh mountain breeze. The concentrated nature of the climb means it fits perfectly as a quick yet rewarding objective—ideal for those seeking to sharpen their chimney and crack skills without committing to a lengthy expedition.
While the route is rated a moderate 5.8, it rewards careful movement rather than raw power. The chimney holds a subtle but noticeable crux, where positioning and composure shift the effort from tiring to manageable. Unlike many overrun climbs in the Flatirons, Born Again sees very limited traffic, keeping it fresh and uncluttered—an excellent choice for climbers who prefer a quiet moment with the rock.
A word of caution: there is currently no fixed anchor at the summit, so climbers should be prepared to build a solid top anchor or prepare for a cautious downclimb. Given the route’s exposure and exposed downclimb edges, having the right rappel gear or planning a solid walk-off route is essential for safety.
Best climbed in spring through fall, when the south-facing wall basks in sunlight, the rock remains dry, and afternoon thunderstorms are not prevalent. Morning ascents capture cool shadows that help maintain good friction but can lengthen the approach time through damp grasses. Footwear with sticky rubber and precise edging capabilities is recommended here, given the slab sections that require quiet confidence.
Born Again’s charm lies in its no-frills encounter with classic Flatiron granite—compact, technical, and inviting. It’s a compelling outing for those who want to work on fundamental trad skills while enjoying a rare quieter slice of the iconic Boulder climbing scene.
No fixed anchor exists at the top. Building a secure anchor or preparing for a cautious downclimb is essential to avoid risk. The climb’s slab sections can become slick when damp, and the approach terrain requires attention to loose rock — take care especially in wet or windy conditions.
Watch for the bright yellow lichen stripe as a visual marker to identify the climb’s South face.
Bring extra slings or cord for building a reliable top anchor; no fixed anchors are present.
Plan your ascent for dry conditions, as the chimney and slab will be slippery when wet.
Consider early morning climbs for cooler rock and fewer crowds on access trails.
A standard trad rack is sufficient. Prepare a selection of cams and hexes, as the route’s crack and chimney sections respond best to varied sizes. Few nuts or smaller gear might add protection options in narrower spots.
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