5.9, Trad
Twentynine Palms
California ,United States
"Boris The Spider offers a no-frills trad climb on Joshua Tree’s Spider Wall. This approachable finger crack combines steady moves with minimal protection, perfect for climbers looking to refine their trad skills in a quiet desert setting."
Boris The Spider presents a modest but worthwhile trad climb tucked into the quieter corners of Joshua Tree National Park’s Spider Wall. While it doesn't boast the flashy moves or bold exposure some routes in the park are known for, it offers a straightforward climb with enough character to engage those familiar with classic finger crack climbing. The approach begins from Indian Cove Campground, threading through well-trodden desert scrub and sun-baked granite, a warm-up as the bones settle and the mind sharpens.
The route itself kicks off on an easy face just ten feet left of the more prominent Poppa Spider. The initial moves are mellow, requiring careful footwork on low-angle slabs with sparse protection opportunities that encourage thoughtful gear placement. The climb then veers right into a clean finger crack that demands steady hand jams and precise placements—here, a larger nut or TCU guards the crux section. As the crack widens to accommodate hands, the terrain holds steady, inviting focus and rhythm rather than sudden bursts of power.
At about 40 feet, Boris The Spider wraps up with a comfortable gear belay, creating a natural stopping point to savor the panoramic views of the jagged desert horizon and the vegetation’s quiet resilience. Descending is unceremonious but must be handled with care—scramble off to the left, staying attentive to loose rock and the fragile desert floor below.
While this climb may not dazzle with high-end technicality or dramatic exposure, it stands as a solid option for climbers comfortable with traditional gear and seeking a low-pressure outing. The route’s modest star rating reflects its straightforward, no-frills nature, yet its accessible crack system and peaceful location reward those wanting to sharpen crack climbing skills without the crowds. Gear up lightly, prepare for desert conditions with ample water and sun protection, and embrace the subtle challenge of Boris The Spider, where steady execution outweighs flashiness.
While the route finishes with a gear belay, the descent requires caution—loose scree and unstable rock on the scramble left call for deliberate, careful movement. Desert heat can also be severe in midday; take preventative hydration and sun protection seriously.
Approach early to avoid midday desert heat.
Bring plenty of water and sunscreen—shade is minimal.
Scramble carefully on descent; loose rock can catch you off guard.
Check your rack for nuts and TCUs, as these offer the best protection here.
Light rack up to 2-inch pieces covers the protection needs. Use larger nuts or TCUs for the finger crack section where placements get more confident.
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