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Borderline: A Diverse Trad Challenge in the Heart of Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
squeeze chimney
bolt protected
multi-pitch
trad
crack climbing
technical face
Squamish
The Chief
The Sheriff's Badge
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Borderline
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Borderline offers climbers a well-rounded trad experience, featuring everything from technical face climbing to a bolt-protected squeeze chimney. Set in Squamish's prestigious Sheriff’s Badge sector, this six-pitch route balances engaging movement with secure protection, appealing to adventurous climbers eager for variety and challenge."

Borderline: A Diverse Trad Challenge in the Heart of Squamish

Borderline carves its path with a compelling blend of technical moves, varied crack systems, and a memorable squeeze chimney that marks its character. Situated in Squamish’s acclaimed Sheriff’s Badge sector, this six-pitch trad route stretches roughly 600 feet—offering a dynamic climbing experience that will engage both your mind and your muscles. From the first pitch’s precise face climbing to the final bolt-protected jug haul, Borderline balances bold adventure with approachable protection, inviting climbers to test their mettle without courting unnecessary risk.

Starting on a bush-backed ledge accessible via a moderate approach trail, the climb kicks off with a steep 10b pitch. Here, technical face maneuvers lead you leftward beneath cracks that soon open into a corner. The transition includes a striking move past a large tree, where the belay station hides just out of sight but rewards careful searching. This beginning sets the tone: careful footwork amid clean, solid holds, all shielded by bomber placements.

The second pitch offers a choice. Climbers seeking a breather can take the 5.8 version, sliding up a natural corner before traversing ten feet right, leading to an airy anchor near the Terrace below Blazing Saddles. Those craving sustained challenge may opt for the harder 11c variation that tests finger strength and balance. This pitch underscores Borderline’s adaptability, catering to different appetites and skill levels.

Pitch three rises with commanding presence—starting with a leftward traverse to a bolt, then cruising through a sequence of bold mid-10 face climbs carefully bolted to keep the tension but protect every move. The pitch culminates in a splitter finger crack that demands commitment, steady hand jams, and controlled breathing. While guidebooks peg it at 10d, the overall flow suggests a slightly softer feel closer to 10b/c, a testament to the quality and consistency of its line.

The fourth pitch eases the pace with 10a climbing over a ramp that ends in a fun roof, requiring a precise pull to overcome before topping out at the belay. Above looms the feature that makes Borderline truly stand out—the bolt-protected, narrow squeeze chimney. At about 8 inches wide, this section demands body awareness and calm focus. Thanks to the carefully placed bolts—strategically debated by the first ascent team—this chimney is accessible without resorting to large cams that would complicate protection and deter repeat ascents.

Pitch five challenges you to clip bolts mid-armbar, a rare combination that feels playful but exacting. Maneuver through the chimney with controlled arm bars, then round a layback crack to a well-built belay perch—where rope drag forces the climbers to pause before the final push. The chimney’s tight embrace dares you forward while keeping a firm safety net, making it one of the route’s most memorable moments.

The last pitch, short but thrilling, demands clean moves on well-protected bolts to gain the summit. At 20 meters, this final stretch presents a concluding test of endurance and technique after the demands of the previous pitches.

Protection for Borderline ranges from nuts and doubles of TUCs up to #2 Camalots, with a single #3 camalot rounding out the rack. This gear mix speaks to the route’s crack variety and face climbing sections, ensuring solid placements through both technical and off-width challenges.

Located in the Sheriff’s Badge area—part of Squamish’s world-renowned climbing playground—Borderline stands as a testament to persistence and craftsmanship. The route required a dedicated cleaning effort, and the thoughtful addition of bolts where natural protection faltered ensures that climbers continue to enjoy this high-quality line in a beautiful wilderness setting. Squamish’s cliffs offer more than just physical challenge; they present commanding views of the coastal mountains and the surrounding rainforest, where the trees seem to whisper encouragement and the wind presses forward with steady resolve.

Climbing Borderline is best undertaken in cooler months or early mornings during summer, as the north-facing wall stays shaded for much of the day. This keeps the rock cool and the friction consistent, key factors for maintaining confidence on technical moves. Descending involves rappelling from the anchors, with anchors well placed, but climbers should mind rope management on the fifth pitch’s slightly awkward belay.

Whether you’re drawn by the unique chimney or the variety of climbing styles spread across six pitches, Borderline promises a memorable day filled with thoughtful movement, solid protection, and an authentic Squamish adventure that challenges without overwhelming. Make sure to pack layers, stay hydrated, and prepare your rack to cover delicate face climbing and reliable crack placements. With its blend of challenge and charm, this route is a standout option for those looking to push into sustained 5.10 territory with a spirit of exploration and respect for the rock.

Climber Safety

The squeeze chimney requires careful arm barring within a tight 8-inch space; poor protection or hesitation can lead to higher risk falls. Additionally, rope drag on pitch five’s belay can strain your system—use extra slings and keep communication clear. Approach terrain includes some loose vegetation that can be slippery when wet.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches6
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler rock and fewer crowds on the north-facing wall.

Bring extra slings for the layback crack on pitch five to reduce rope drag.

Double-check your protection in the chimney; bolts are spaced but placements can be tricky.

Prepare for a moderate approach involving some bushy sections and scrambling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.10d, Borderline’s difficulty feels nuanced. Pitches like the finger crack pitch settle closer to 10b/c in sustained effort, offering a shaded grade that plays to climbers comfortable with sustained mid-10 face climbing and technical crack work. The bolt-protected squeeze chimney eases what would otherwise be a much more intimidating off-width challenge, making it accessible but still committing.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes nuts and doubles of TUCs up to #2 Camalot, plus a single #3 Camalot. Bolts protect the trickier squeeze chimney, eliminating the need for large cams and helping maintain a clean route.

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Tags

squeeze chimney
bolt protected
multi-pitch
trad
crack climbing
technical face
Squamish
The Chief
The Sheriff's Badge