HomeClimbingBooty Crack

Booty Crack: A Bold Sport Climb in Auburn Quarry

Auburn, California USA
sport climbing
crux start
granite
single pitch
short approach
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Booty Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Booty Crack

Sport

Auburn, California USA

Overview

"Booty Crack is a powerful single-pitch sport climb in Auburn Quarry that challenges climbers with a dynamic and committing crux near the start. With clean granite and a compact 50-foot route, it’s ideal for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a classic California climbing area."

Booty Crack: A Bold Sport Climb in Auburn Quarry

Booty Crack offers a compelling ascent for climbers seeking a short but intense sport climb within California’s Auburn Quarry. Positioned on the Scale Wall, this 50-foot route commands attention with its direct line and a sequence that tests your finger strength and mental grit right from the lowering first moves. The opening section is the heart of the climb—the crux zone where you will navigate two closely spaced bolts with a committing reach and precise footwork. Once past this challenge, the route eases to moderate 5.8 moves that allow you to breathe and lock in technique as you ascend to the anchor.

The route’s compact nature makes it perfect for climbers who want a quick, focused session or a solid warm-up on quality granite. The rock holds a clean polished surface common to Auburn’s urban quarry setting, offering mostly positive edges and shallow pockets that demand both power and finesse. As you climb, the wall’s vertical profile invites a steady rhythm, with brief rests after the crux bolted section allowing you to preview the finish.

Located within the Auburn State Recreation Area, the Scale Wall benefits from a mixture of open sun and occasional shade from nearby trees, making morning or late afternoon the best time to climb, especially when summer heat peaks. The approach is short and straightforward, accessed via well-maintained paths from the parking area, making it easy to reach without long hikes or complicated navigation.

The route’s bolting is solid—six bolts lead you safely to a two-bolt anchor with adequate pad and rope management space. While the gear is dependable, your confidence in clipping quickly through the crux bolts will be your key to success here. Given the focused effort required early on, climbers recommended to bring shoes with moderate down-turn and good edging comfort.

For adventurers seeking a brief but punchy climb with a mix of technical moves and accessible climbing near the I-80 corridor, Booty Crack delivers an experience that balances challenge and achievable success. Expect a lively encounter with the granite, where every move demands attention and rewards persistence, set in the heart of a well-loved climbing area that keeps returning visitors coming back.

Climber Safety

The initial section is commitment-heavy with bolts spaced to protect a dynamic and thin sequence, so confident clipping and precise footwork are essential. The granite holds are solid but can be slick where polished by traffic. Always double-check anchors and wear a helmet on the approach where loose rock may be present.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to climb when the wall is shaded by surrounding trees.

Wear shoes with good edging capability and moderate downturn for the crux moves.

Bring plenty of water—summer temperatures can soar in Auburn.

Focus on smooth clipping to maintain momentum through the crux bolts.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.10a, the crux feels sharply concentrated around the first two bolts, requiring powerful, precise moves. After the crux, the difficulty drops to around 5.8, allowing climbers to recover and enjoy cleaner climbing to the top. This route fits well within Auburn’s moderate-hard spectrum, offering a short but honest punch of sustained effort.

Gear Requirements

Six bolts protect the route leading to a secure two-bolt anchor. The bolt spacing around the crux demands confident clipping and precise movement. Quickdraws of standard length suffice, and no additional gear is needed.

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Tags

sport climbing
crux start
granite
single pitch
short approach