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Boomstick Crack: A Unique Trad Link in Squamish’s Apron

Squamish, Canada
thin flake
trad crack
two pitch
finger jams
linking route
easy approach
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Boomstick Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Boomstick Crack slices a slender, technical flake through Squamish’s Apron, connecting popular climbs with a crisp trad experience. Its sharp initial move and approachable finger jams offer climbers a memorable challenge amidst stunning granite walls."

Boomstick Crack: A Unique Trad Link in Squamish’s Apron

Boomstick Crack threads a slender crack through the heart of Squamish's celebrated Apron area, offering a straightforward yet distinctive trad climbing link favored by those moving between classic ascents like Broadway Ledge and the Squamish Buttress. Spanning roughly 200 feet over two pitches, this route may be succinctly handled in one longer pitch for climbers armed with a 70-meter rope, though the initial move demands focused attention and a steady mindset.

From the ledge at Broadway, where many lower Apron routes wrap up, Boomstick Crack presents an immediate, thin flake that commands respect. This first move—delicately balanced and reliant on a narrow feature—forms the technical crux. It’s a step that requires your trust in the rock’s quiet steadfastness, a moment where hesitation suspends you in the interface between gravity and perseverance.

Following this signature start, the climbing settles into approachable finger-to-hand jams and gently angled rock, guiding you upward through an uncluttered line that feels refreshingly different from the bustling traffic of Squamish’s more famous walls. The crack’s narrowness lends a unique texture to the climb—a tactile conversation with the rock, rather than a brute struggle. Protection focuses around smaller cams, up to three inches, enough to secure the second climber comfortably. While falling onto these may feel unnerving given the flake’s subtle form, the placements are generally reliable.

The route’s location within The Apron means it's perched on one of Squamish’s hallmark granite faces, renowned for solid rock and airy surroundings. This setting animates the climb with sweeping views of the surrounding forested slopes below and the imposing massif that is The Chief above. The position also affords quiet moments amid the wind’s low murmur and the occasional distant call of mountain birds.

Approaching the route is direct, starting from the well-trafficked Broadway Ledge. This accessibility makes Boomstick Crack an appealing connector for climbers threading together longer objectives or simply wanting a short but memorable trad experience away from more crowded lines.

Timing your climb to early morning or late afternoon can be advantageous, as the East-facing aspect allows the rock to warm up gradually while avoiding harsh midday sun. Spring through fall presents the best conditions, with drier rock and more stable weather patterns.

Descent is straightforward via a walk-off back down to Broadway Ledge, requiring no rappels but a watchful eye on loose rock sections along the trail. Be prepared with steady footwear suited to transitioning between approach and climb, and bring ample water, as the route’s moderate grade doesn’t require excessive hydration but maintaining fluidity on the move is key.

In all, Boomstick Crack delivers a focused trad experience in the core of Squamish’s climbing mecca. It’s a route that rewards calm precision and respectful engagement with the rock, making it a worthy addition to your Squamish itinerary whether as a linking pitch or a stand-alone climb.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of the first move's narrow flake—while solid, it’s visually delicate. Falls here are rare but can be unnerving due to the thin protection. Maintain composure and be sure-footed, especially if simul-climbing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Trust the thin flake on the first move—it’s solid despite appearances.

A 70-meter rope allows you to link both pitches smoothly.

Early morning shade helps avoid overheating the rock on sunny days.

Wear shoes that balance precision for crack climbing and comfort for descent hikes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.6, Boomstick Crack carries a soft grade overall, but the initial move adds a subtle crux that demands focus and confidence. Compared to other squamish trad cracks, the difficulty is approachable but the unusual thinness of the flake sets it apart, making it feel more technical than the number alone might imply.

Gear Requirements

A small rack with cams up to 3 inches covers the protection needs nicely. These placements primarily serve to keep the second secure rather than absorb major leader falls, as the flake is thin and falls here feel unsettling but safe.

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Tags

thin flake
trad crack
two pitch
finger jams
linking route
easy approach