"Bookmark OW offers a sharp taste of wide crack climbing on Lumpy Ridge, combining a well-protected overhanging off-width with moderate climbing below and easier terrain above. Ideal for trad climbers craving a concise but tough crack experience in Estes Park Valley."
The Bookmark OW on Lumpy Ridge offers a straightforward yet satisfying climb for trad enthusiasts eager to test their wide-crack skills in the heart of Estes Park Valley, Colorado. From the start, the lower section offers moderate climbing, easing you into a hands-on engagement with clean corners and cracks that demand attention. But the real character of this route emerges from the overhanging off-width (OW) section. Here, the rock dares you into a brief but intense tussle—an unyielding test of strength and technique that rewards persistence with a sense of accomplishment seldom found on more polished climbs.
Above the OW, the terrain softens into easier, somewhat looser widening cracks leading toward the summit of the pitch. These sections require less brute force and more finesse and patience as you navigate the crumbly rock and wider placements. Once at the top, downclimbing rightward through a straightforward scramble brings a smooth finish to the climb, transitioning you back to the ridge in short order.
This route was ground-up redpointed on the second attempt after returning equipped with the right wide gear, underscoring the importance of preparation and perseverance. It sits quietly as an unheralded first ascent, an inviting challenge for climbers who appreciate clean rock and the visceral satisfaction of wide crack climbing, far from crowded faces or overhyped lines.
Approaching the Bookmark OW means entering a rugged stretch of Lumpy Ridge known for its distinctive geology and clear mountain air. The climb is best tackled with a standard trad rack augmented by larger cams—specifically one #5 and two #6 Friends to handle the OW section carefully. These bigger pieces ensure secure protection in the wider cracks that form the crux.
The rating of 5.9- suggests a moderately challenging experience, with the OW segment providing the main bump in effort and technique. Compared to other crack climbs in the Estes Park region, the Bookmark OW feels deceptively approachable but demands respect, especially if you’re newer to wide climbing. It’s the kind of route that teaches patience, body positioning, and the subtle art of violence mixed with grace against the rock.
Timing your ascent for late spring through early fall guarantees better weather and stable conditions on the wall, as Lumpy Ridge’s northwest aspect can hold cool shade in the afternoon but also invites swift sun in the morning hours. Planning your climb to avoid extreme heat or sudden storms will help keep the loose rock sections safer and the experience rewarding.
Safety-wise, note that the upper widening cracks can be dirtier and less solid than the lower sections, so deliberate placements and cautious footwork are essential. The top-out scramble is straightforward but pay attention to loose debris and avoid dislodging rocks onto party members below during descent.
All told, Bookmark OW is a hidden gem for wide crack aficionados looking to escape the busy frontcountry and enjoy a focused, authentic trad crack experience in a stunning Colorado setting. It blends straightforward climbing with an edge of challenge that keeps your mind engaged and your muscles working, offering a vivid reminder of why wide cracks remain a cornerstone of crack climbing culture.
The upper widening cracks can harbor loose and dirtier rock—take care with placements and avoid kicking debris downward. The top-out scramble is stable but requires attention to footing, especially when descending. Loose rock is the main hazard here.
Bring a set of big cams; the #5 and #6 sizes are essential for protecting the OW.
Start early to avoid afternoon shade and loosened rock on the upper sections.
Be prepared for a brief but physical off-width back half of the pitch.
Scramble down right at the top; avoid descending the wide crack to limit rockfall risk.
Standard trad rack with a focus on larger cams—especially one #5 and two #6 Friends—to secure the wide, overhanging crack section effectively.
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