"Bongs Away, Left offers an engaging 80-foot trad adventure on Yosemite's granite, combining steep double cracks and a shallow chimney with reliable protection. Perfect for climbers extending their Reed's Direct ascent, this pitch is a balanced test of power and technique with a memorable roof finish."
Bongs Away, Left is a compelling single-pitch climb that offers a satisfying blend of technical challenge and solid protection, ideal for climbers pushing beyond the traditional finish of Reed's Direct pitch two. Positioned within the iconic Lower Merced River Canyon of Yosemite National Park, this route climbs an 80-foot granite face peppered with steep double cracks and a shallow chimney that invites varied hand and knee jams. From the moment you step onto the rock, the vertical crack system pulls you upward with a physical rhythm, demanding both strength and finesse. The shallow chimney acts as a natural breathing space, allowing climbers to find no-hands rests that feel earned but well-deserved. This interplay between effort and relief sets a pace that is steady rather than sustained, making it accessible to intermediate trad climbers looking to test wide crack techniques without committing to the severe overhangs of the region.
As you near the sloping ledge halfway up, the left crack’s character shifts, drawing a gaze towards an imposing overhung offwidth that hints at greater difficulty—yet here, you remain on the approachable line. The ledge itself offers a pause before the crack curves upward to a roof, where featured granite handholds make the pull both logical and secure. This section feels gratifying to surmount, the granite’s texture lending assurance under each move. While the climb is not overly long, its varied crack sizes provide an excellent opportunity to practice placing gear—ranging up to 3.5 or 4-inch camming devices—with confidence.
Reed's Pinnacle stands within a stunning part of Yosemite Valley, a world-renowned climbing hotspot whose granite walls repeatedly call adventurers to test their mettle. The Lower Merced River slices through this corridor, adding a faint, constant murmur that keeps you company during the climb and descent. Weather-wise, this pitch shines in late spring through early fall, when dry, sunlit walls offer the best friction and warmth. Footwear with precise edging and a comfortable upper is recommended, while layering light clothing allows for quick adjustments amid the valley’s shifting temperatures.
Safety here hinges on understanding the cracking system and placing reliable pro—this route rewards those who know how to assess crack width confidently. The rock quality is famously solid, but the chimney’s shallow nature means slipping hazards exist without controlled movement. Approaching via the established trail to Reed’s Direct pitch is straightforward, with clear GPS coordinates guiding you to the base. After topping out, downclimbing to the anchor or following route-specific rappel instructions will bring you safely back to the ground.
For climbers seeking a non-sustained, well-protected trad pitch highlighted by moving jams and a fun, featured roof cap, Bongs Away, Left offers an exemplary Yosemite experience. It pairs manageable commitment with that genuine feeling of Yosemite granite—a textured, demanding canvas begging for hands and feet to dance in harmony.
The chimney section, while full of no-hands rests, demands caution against sudden slips due to its shallow depth. Ensure secure placements in the wider cracks to avoid falls, and be mindful of loose debris that can accumulate in nooks along the crack line. Approach and descent trails are straightforward but always watch footing near exposed drops.
Start early to catch morning sun on the face for better friction and comfort.
Wear climbing shoes with solid edging and moderate stiffness to navigate crack widths efficiently.
Hydrate well before the approach—Yosemite Valley heat builds quickly in summer months.
Scout the chimney carefully; its shallow nature demands controlled body positioning to avoid slips.
Bring a standard trad rack with emphases on cams up to 3.5 or 4 inches to cover the wide double cracks. A set of nuts complements placements in thinner sections. The chimney allows for secure rests but expect to place pro frequently along the vertical cracks.
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