Bones: A Raw 5.9 Flake Climb in Owens River Gorge

Bishop, California United States
flake
trad gear
single pitch
5.9
exposed
dry desert
classic Owens River Gorge
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bones
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bones climbs a sharp, confident-tinged flake on Owens River Gorge’s east face. This single-pitch 5.9 offers straightforward climbing with an alpine edge, perfect for climbers ready to embrace a route where rock quality demands respect and skill."

Bones: A Raw 5.9 Flake Climb in Owens River Gorge

Bones commands attention as it ascends a pronounced flake on the east face within the Owens River Gorge, offering climbers a stripped-down, alpine-flavored experience unusual for this part of California. The route’s single pitch, standing about 40 feet tall, challenges you with a solid 5.9 rating—but don’t let that steady grade fool you. The flake you follow feels alive under your hands, sturdy enough to hold but carrying just enough uncertainty that requires a confident touch and calm nerve. The wall’s texture invites friction moves blended with subtle balance, making every placement and foot adjustment feel consequential.

The Gorge itself cuts a raw figure, surrounded by high desert with juniper and sagebrush tuning the senses. Standing at the base, you can hear the Owens River daring you forward, its waters pushing against stones shaped over millennia. The ambient sounds—wind stirring dry brush, occasional birdcalls threading through the narrow corridor—merit a pause before the climb, grounding you to your senses.

Protection calls for a rack extending to #3 cams, but be warned: the fixed anchors are sparse and uneven. A rusty bolt lurks near the top, a reminder that preparation and vigilance are essential. The nut anchor at the belay is solid yet no one would call it bombproof. Bring solid placements and double-check each piece, since this route balances on the edge between confidence and cautious respect.

Approach is straightforward but rugged—a brisk 15-minute hike from the main parking area leads you over rocky talus and patches of desert scrub. The trail dips toward the base through a narrow corridor where sunlight angles in late morning, making early day starts ideal for cool conditions. Given the exposure and desert heat, aim for spring or fall climbs when temperatures stay moderate.

After topping out, the descent is a manageable downclimb with stable holds back to the trail. No rappelling is needed, but maintain attention; the loose surface on some ledges rewards careful footwork.

This route is perfect for climbers seeking a no-frills, technical 5.9 in a distinctive setting where nature is unpolished and the rock retains character. Expect moderate exposure and a blend of finger lock tactics with precise footwork on friction. While the protection demands respect and solid trad experience, the payoff is direct contact with the limestone’s personality, punctuated by stunning views and the steady pulse of the Owens River below.

If you’re mapping out your day, pack plenty of water, wear grippy shoes suited for thin crack work, and bring a set of cams up to #3 with nuts for a secure rack. Given the route’s shared spaces and sparse crowding, a lightweight rack and calm mindset make this climb a memorable highlight in the Sierra’s east side landscape.

Climber Safety

Protection is limited and includes a fixed nut and a wedged sling knot, plus an aged bolt that’s not totally reliable. Place your gear mindfully, and be ready for the feel of the rock under hands that can shift slightly. The descent involves a downclimb over loose rock—stay deliberate to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy cooler rock conditions.

Double-check protective gear placements; anchors are sparse and not bomber.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for friction on the flake’s textured limestone.

Hydrate well—desert air and exertion will increase water needs quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade feels authentic but edged with a subtle crux on the flake movements. The route demands careful, precise footwork and placements rather than sheer power. Compared to other 5.9s in the area, Bones is less sustained but introduces an alpine-like caution that adds mental weight.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack ranging up to #3 cams and an assortment of nuts. The anchor setup includes a fixed nut and a wedged sling knot, supplemented by a less reliable bolt near the top, so solid placements throughout the route are vital.

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Tags

flake
trad gear
single pitch
5.9
exposed
dry desert
classic Owens River Gorge